DieselBike.net

Just a guess but maybe the belt is too long for the clutch center to center distance you currently have. Sounds like you have the correct weights and springs to get the primary working with the lower rpm range of your engine. The drive clutch engaging all the way with no belt on is proof of this. If...

Some may have noticed the thermostat housing cut off. This is because it did not fit under mt frame. I have had to shorten the coolant exit port by removing the thermostat housing from that spot and reconnecting the 90 degree elbow lower down. It will be welded together and I will use an inline ther...

Yes i have the original one from the cx500. Seems to work fine.

Pulled the sub-frame today to do some cooling system work.

Great to see an update on this build, one of my favorites. Very well done fab work.

Oh that is very cool. Ill check into that if my dynamo isn't up to snuff.

I was eyeing one from walmart of all places of that same design. I believe it is bigger than the kubota dynamos and will not fit. A comparison of the two from a different source. Definitely a compact option for anyone that could get by with 20a or so. Still much smaller than the alternator for these...

As far as the dynamo goes, I'm doubting it will work as my current setup has it powering the fan and an electric fuel pump plus all the lights.The alternators for these motors are quite small but they are larger than the dynamo and it just fits past the frame. My fan is low draw for the cfm it can p...

Much better access to transmission. For anyone with oil filter fitment issues definitely try the method pietenpol2002 mentioned first, much cheaper and would function just as well. For me it was no bueno.

Fully slid forward Exhaust side mount past vertical tube. 2 1/8" clearance at top of cap to tube, 1 7/8" clearance at middle of cap to tube where filter is the widest. My filter is 3" diameter.

Mount Position. Very limited access to transmission components.

Clearance on IP side

Thanks for the recommendation. I did try that route before buying the adapter. Wish it had worked as it would have been much cheaper and simpler.I tried one on both sides and it was close. My engine also slides forward about 4 1/2" on the lower sub-frame, once the engine and tranny mount bolts ...

With the 3 cylinder engine back in the radiator will be going back under the seat as it was originally with the other 3 cylinder kubota. I could have used the same modified cx500 rad but the fit was rather poor. I was having a hard time finding something with the correct dimensions while trying to m...

New genuine comet 40 series driven clutch. I originally bought a knock-off set from ebay which worked ok but you get what you pay for. The drive clutch seems fine but I was having problems while trying to dial in my clutch alignment. I could never get it perfect. Then I released that the driven clut...

The brass (bronze?) tubes are rigid mounted to the aluminum bracket and will serve as guides/sleeves for my throttle and fuel cut -off cables. They are brake lines that start as straight stock with flares and fitting on each side. Fairly easy to bend without kinking with the correct tool. One starts...

New low profile stainless alternator/dynamo mount. Not sure if the dynamo will supply enough power but I hope it does as I'm not sure I have room for anything larger.

Remote mount oil filter adapter and remote oil filter mount. There was not enough room for even the shortest filter I could find. The adapter is about 2" deep total and just fits behind the sub-frame vertical tube. Fairly pricey unit but it did the job and looks good. The oil filter mount was v...

New engine mounts. More angular design, engine lowered 1/4" I believe in order to better align the final shaft output with the u joint cup in the swingarm.

Very glad that the forum is back up and running. Still working away at the bike slowly getting little things done over the winter so it's hopefully finally ready to go on the road this riding season.

I do mean toothed yes, but in Canada "cogged" is commonly used to refer to timing belt style pulleys and belts although technically incorrect.

Paradox1559, the mower deck spindle is a very good idea

cogged drive belts are very efficient, I believe they use less power than a chain and sprockets. The belts are fairly cheap and can be bought in any length, the cogged pulleys can be pricey if you get into the bigger sizes but the smaller sizes, say around 4 inch diameter are not bad.

I think you mean have the "drive" pulley on a jackshaft as well as the driven with the engine turning the jackshaft the drive pulley is on via a belt?
if thats the case, theres no reason it wouldnt work. I had to do this for my build for packaging constraints.

Making steady progress. Sub-frame pieces are fully assembled, the oil an has been swapped to a normal tin style, the stripped engine was mocked up and the extra pieces were all added, the transmission was assembled, and the gas tank got new front mounts that tie into the new sub-frame design. This i...

Both d722s and the z482 I had came with centrifugal v belt clutches mounted to the flywheel. These clutches come apart easy (a few bolts and a light press fit section) and you will be left with a splined shaft attached to the circular flywheel plate (one piece). There is enough meat on that splined ...

Very interested to watch the build. I have always been interested in those engines and thought they would be perfect for a bike with the cylinders horizontal making for a short engine as opposed to most engines others including myself use, which tend to be very tall.

New sub-frame assembly designed so that the down tubes are easily removable to allow the engine and transmission combo to be slid forward to allow more space for service, repairs, adjustments. The new plates will remain on the frame under the gas tank, the down tube will unbolt at the top and slide ...