DieselBike.net

Or balls of steel

Anorak_ian wrote:Ah, a rubber tank cover is needed then.

You must do a static timing check. If you look the top of the output fittings on the fuel pump are slotted. This will allow you to change the fuel timing about 3 to 3.5 degrees. The Pusun's and all the other Chinese diesels that I have screwed with have timing marks on the flywheel. They use BTC for...

The seat is way above the key. If you hit something you will nut yourself on the back of the tank first

Anorak_ian wrote:Interesting place to put an ignition switch.

I hope you don't have a front end impact, or you'll loose ya nuts.

I posted a new video on Youtube. Its an 18 minute ride on my V twin turbo diesel. I decided not to edit it down as it really shows the bike riding in the real world. The top speed was 65 mph. I won't say what the posted limit was http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DgsxiKslwRU

Sean

Yup some poor sucker made the news a while back out in British Columbia with one of these. landed in the trees after a control failure. It will never be road legal, can't be flown in much over 5 mph winds and slower than a donkey. Other than that great idea

I find the run their best just before the parts start flying through the case

thundercougarfalconbird wrote:fixed as in non adjustable , need to build adjustable controler and adjust to where the engine runs its best

I always find they run their best just before the parts start flying through the case

thundercougarfalconbird wrote:fixed as in non adjustable , need to build adjustable controler and adjust to where the engine runs its best

Yes it was back on the road two weeks after it broke. I was able to buy a new engine from a friend of mine. I just put it back on the road after winter storage and needing on valve seat cleaned up. Bike is running well. Now if it would just stop raining!! any updates to this? Ever get it back togeth...

Just going to throw a crazy idea out there. Has anyone measured the crankcase pressure? I know the v twins have an outrageous amount of blow by when turboed. There is no way the little stock piss hole vent can handle all of the back pressure. This could be part of the problem that the singles are ha...

One thing I have seen was when my friend old snowmobiles secondary was frozen. Because it would not open it would flip the belt upside down. So getting any offset in the belt would be a bad thing. Hell it only happened 35 years ago you would think I would remeber right away :lol: So lets just say th...

You can't flip one without the other. As the primary closes the belt centre moves to the fixed side of the primary. At the same time the secondary opens and the belt moves away from the fixed side allowing the belt to remain centred. ... Have sat their and done this mentally for hours now.... and I ...

As the primary closes the belt centre moves to the fixed side of the primary. At the same time the secondary opens and the belt moves away from the fixed side allowing the belt to remain centred. You are right that they would both need to be flipped togeather was asleep at the switch on that one :oo...

You are right that they would both need to be flipped togeather was asleep at the switch on that one .

All four of the bikes I have built have the rear wheel flipped (right side drives were all the rage for a few years). The belt and secondary aren't that wide its the primary that makes the big bump. My custom stainless steel cover is a salad bowl from Walmart. My foot pegs are forward of my drive bu...

Look down the page on the link it show that this clutch is for a Lambardini. http://www.ebay.ca/sch/i.html?_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=CVTech&_sacat=0&_from=R40 Price is way to high though. You can get the same setup I'm running for about $450 brand new from Gemini Karts in the UK. Som...

You can't turn the secondary around it won't work unless they make a reverse helix. Most units have the spring and helix on the inside but not all. Flipping the primary should be doable. The problem I see with moving the primary is supporting the shaft as it cannot pass through the clutch. So the tr...

If you use a Quad CVT you may not be able to get springs, weights and helix that will work in the RPM range of your diesel. Most quad CVTs are designed for much higher HP and RPM. Spinning it faster to get it to engage will work but then the fun starts as you still have lower HP and the torque will ...

Ya found that out the first time I washed mine. I do have a cover that seems okay in the rain. Just don't close it off tight the belt does need cooling airflow. Mine is open on the bottom and the inside. Ok so if running a belt drive either use some type of shroud or don't ride in the rain. That was...

Maybe I can shed some light on the clutch setup. Out of tyhe box all Comet 40's come with what they call the standard 4 cycle setup. The engagement is at 1600rpm and the driven has a red spring. This is setup for things like golf carts etc. And as it happens it is almost bang on for a 10hp diesel bi...

I was contacted by this group a couple of years back. I shared the list of parts and suppliers and ideas that we used on our first builds. I did not here much after that but I'm glad to see they got it up and running. I had offered a Skype hook up to my class in hopes the students could exchange ide...

Nice job Justin! The comet 40 clutch set really seems to be almost a perfect match with the 10hp engine. next you need a turbo

Sean

Looks good so far. Its amazing how much these little turbos whip up the oil. If you can use a piece of copper tube or something like it on your turbo return it will help dump some heat out of the return oil

radicalnegative1 wrote:Latest development:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fwfe4LhJDqY


Does everything look ok?

OT- Interstingly... Carts Plus does offer machining of the driven pulley which allows the two halves of sheave to close together farther to push belt out to a larger diameter. which lowers starting gear ratio allowing motor to rev faster. http://www.cartpartsplus.com/machining-your-driven-clutch.ht...

Lots of beer helps :mrgreen: .... Looking at your pictures you may want to install you driven clutch first as your drain tube looks like it will hit where your turbo is mounted.... Assume you mean Drive clutch or Primary Clutch. The terms are confusing. Driven is the Secondary clutch. as in it is &q...

Looks like you have the same line kit I used. The fill cap has a very coarse thread but you could cut the dip stick and finger tab off. Then drill and tap it to take a standard pipe thread. I hear you on metric hardware. Canada went metric in 1976 yet you can't buy it at most hardware stores and whe...

No problem drilling the block. The casting on the twins are very porous and almost crumble when taping. Looking at your pictures you may want to install you primary clutch first as your drain tube looks like it will hit where your turbo is mounted. You might want to pop the side cover and look for a...

Not clubby just speaking turbo. Maybe the 30+ years of turbos and gas turbines makes me forget to explain things 8) IAT= intake air temp also called TIT turbine inlet temp 165 ddegrees F would be the temaerature. And at 10 psi 165F is very good "...mine was making IAT around 165f..." Huh??...

IAT= intake air temp 165 degrees F. And at 10 psi 165F is very good

XLerate wrote:"...mine was making IAT around 165f..." Huh????

Forgot you drain back question. I drilled a hole in the top of block an tapped it with a 3/8" pipe thread so its a straight run back into the block with a 1/2' tube. I read somewhere that someone drained it back in one of the fill holes. The twins only have one fill hole and it is wrapped way a...

I just used 1/4-20 tap and tapped the hole in the head and plugged it with a set screw. You can see where they plugged the passages for the vent system in the rocker covers. I pulled the little platic vavle out of the inside and drilled one of the plugs out and tapped it with a 1/4" pipe thread...