Hello guys....i Have a 0.6Kw starter motor (Maruthi 800 starter Motor) fitted to my 325cc greaves Lombardini (6LD325) Engine...just wanna know how much amps does a generic 0.6Kw Starter draw..my present bike has a Exide backer 14amps battery which come stock Fitted to Switch Start Enfield at the moment..the pic is here : http://www.spectramarketing.info/css/images/e4.jpg
its a 12V 14 amps battery but whats the 3A at the ending..??? is it the Maximum amp draw of the battery..??..at the moment the self works some times but some times it hesitates...is it because the battery is taking load..??? just wanna know if i add another 14amps battery to the system and connect the 2 batteries in parallel and make the circuit a 28amp battery will the starter motor draw from both the batteries and start easily..??? if yes then how should i do the wiring..????any advice is Appreciated and also i cannot add a Single 35amps battery as it will mess with the bikes balancing and also its a bother to mount it on the bike and also the stock battery and Covers suite the bike Nicely..
First things first - that is NOT a 14amp battery, it is a 14 amp-hour battery, i.e. it can deliver 12V at 14A for 1 hour, or 12V at 1A for 14 hours etc.
For very short periods (seconds) it will be able to deliver very much more current (amps).
It is typical for most japanese fours, middle-weight twins etc to have a battery somewhere between 9 to 12amp-hour, and they're typically driving 0.7KW starter motors.
At 12V this means they are delivering: 700W / 12V = 58 amps.
The 3A at the end of the battery identification is typically related to the battery shape and terminal type & arrangement.
If it's not starting very well then the first thing to do is to assess the condition of everything - intermittent poor starting could be down to:
-worn brushes in the motor
-worn or burned starter relay contacts
-undersize, poor quality or poor condition wiring
-undersize, poor quality or poor condition battery and chassis earth connectors
-tired battery (properly checking battery condition is much more involved than just measuring its voltage fully charged)
If the engine has a decompressor then check the operation of that too - using a decompressor will significantly reduce the peak current drawn by the starter motor.
Overall my suspicion is that the battery is probably a bit small for the task but probably doesn't need to be THAT much bigger. People on here are electric starting 950cc twins with 20Ah batteries. That said, if you've retained the original Enfield starter solenoid and wiring then just replacing the battery might not be enough.
If you have a look at CountyBatteryService.co.uk they have a lot of dimensions and current ratings for the batteries they sell. You could have a look at a range of batteries in the 14 to 18Ah region and see what Cold Cranking Amps they can deliver (CCA), and see if any of them could be made to fit.
Be aware that CCA is measured under very specific conditions and a battery won't always be able to deliver that current, but it does help you compare between different batteries a bit. AGM batteries can usually deliver more starting current, but in all cases you get what you pay for - a good quality battery will perform more consistently, for longer.
Fitting a second battery in parallel can be done, and would help with the starting, but it's not brilliant - even if you buy two batteries at a time, one will always perform slightly differently to the other, and they'll interfere with each other a bit when charging etc, but then with two 14Ah batteries, good quality wiring and a big solenoid you probably wouldn't have any more starting problems. On the other hand - if both these batteries ever went fairly flat then you'd give the alternator and reg/rec a pretty serious work out when charging them. This could be alleviated by disconnecting one of the batteries for a while so that the current drawn to charge them is reduced.
okay so now i have installed another battery and now i have 2 12v battery 14ah each,both summing up to 28ah...and now i am able to start the engine with out any lag or engaging the Decompresser...
I have resurrected this thread as my question is very similar
I have a question about batteries.
I am putting Smart Diesel intoa BMW K100.
The original Smart diesel 450 engine used a 065 car battery which was 12 V, 55 AH, 440 CCA
the later Smart diesel 451 engine (post 2007) used a 027 car battery which was 12 V, 63 AH, 540 CCA
the standard BMW K 100 battery is 12 V, 30 AH, 300 CCA.
A Moto Batt absorbed glass mat sealed battery (which is the same size as the original BMW battery of course) is 12 V 32 AH, 385 CCA
for a whole variety of reasons, including space, the size of the existing battery carrier, and the fact that I already have 2 “in stock”, I would like to use the original BMW bike battery. What I don’t want to do is “engineer” everything around the battery only to find out that it just isn’t up to the job. If I need to put a much bigger battery in, I’m going to have to rethink where I’m mount all the electronics and fuses and fly by wire sensor. As I am having to weld brackets to the frame for this, I’d rather do them once and do them right.
The original battery in the car is obviously designed to work in a whole variety of different circumstances including extremely cold winter weather and also to be used as the battery quality deteriorates over a period of years. It’s interesting that Mercedes in their infinite Teutonic wisdom went up from 440 CCA to 540 CCA in the later models.
So, to get round to my question:
What do our experts think about using the original 32 AH, 385 CCA BMW battery instead of 63 AH, 540 CCA?
Thanks for the thoughts everyone.
Merc Estate
BRA CX 3
2 CV Dolly
2 x 250 MZs
1 x 125 4 stroke MZ
2 x 301 MZ
1 x Enfield Himalayan
1x Monkey bike
1 x Honda CT125
1 x Campervan Vivaro
1 x MZ Es250/1 and sidecar
1 x Cat
2 x Parrots
I'd guess the Smart battery was sized to allow for cold starts, possibly down to -40. I know VW did this with their diesels in the '90's. If you are not planning on riding below freezing, you should be able to use a smaller battery. As long as the starter draw doesn't exceed the battery output.
Thinking of my Tiger. Do you have that battery in stock location? Need any mods to fit it in there if so? Feel free to PM me so not to hijack this fellows thread
Thanks Stuart.
The dimensions of yours MBT16XU are 151 X 161 X 81
the dimensions of the standard BMW (which would be MBTX30U) are slightly larger at 166 X 175 X 126..
Therefore, if the one you're using is okay, I'm certain that I can get away the size of the original battery albeit that I might have to go for a higher spec in the same size.
With regard to hijacking the thread, as it's all on the same type of subject, I personally have no problem with it because after all, it's an old thread that I resurrected anyway. It's not as if anyone is asking questions about what kind of oil they put in t a C90!
Merc Estate
BRA CX 3
2 CV Dolly
2 x 250 MZs
1 x 125 4 stroke MZ
2 x 301 MZ
1 x Enfield Himalayan
1x Monkey bike
1 x Honda CT125
1 x Campervan Vivaro
1 x MZ Es250/1 and sidecar
1 x Cat
2 x Parrots
16VGTIDave wrote:I'd guess the Smart battery was sized to allow for cold starts, possibly down to -40. I know VW did this with their diesels in the '90's. If you are not planning on riding below freezing, you should be able to use a smaller battery. As long as the starter draw doesn't exceed the battery output.
My thoughts also. I guess that in really cold Scandinavian type countries, they replace their batteries a lot more often because I've noticed my car is cranking a lot slower now when the weather is cold but I guess that's because the battery is now 13 years old. Hopefully, it will last me at least till next winter.
Merc Estate
BRA CX 3
2 CV Dolly
2 x 250 MZs
1 x 125 4 stroke MZ
2 x 301 MZ
1 x Enfield Himalayan
1x Monkey bike
1 x Honda CT125
1 x Campervan Vivaro
1 x MZ Es250/1 and sidecar
1 x Cat
2 x Parrots
So I'll answer Coach here. That battery is actually bigger than the original Neil put in my Tiger. In between I tried the new Lithium with wasn't up to it on cold (June!) mornings at the rally [SMILING FACE WITH SMILING EYES]. But I'd had to enlarge the compartment slightly for the Lithium and found I could get the better & bigger Motobatt in. A few more amp hour on that.
Stuart. M1030M1, Honda NC700S, Grom!, Toyota Corolla 1.4 Turbo Diesel. Favouring MPG over MPH.
and also i cannot add a Single 35amps battery as it will mess with the bikes balancing and also its a bother to mount it on the bike and also the stock battery and Covers suite the bike Nicely..
