Daihatsu BMW K100 adaptor plates

Post by **Stuart** » Sat May 23, 2015 9:07 am

Feel free to grab this drawing guys as it was used to laser cut my plates. They are on a raw state & will need a tiny amount of filing to fit I'm sure. Also dowl points x2 have yet to be opened out on the gearbox plate.
My project isn't being made public on here in its entirety as it's taking too long etc but things like this may help inspire others to crack on. Please grab the drawing, just in case! FYI my engine plate is 6mm & gearbox 8mm thick.
As you can see, I had 2 of each cut

https://www.dropbox.com/s/5xxes4d099802 ... s.dwg?dl=0

coachgeo · Post by **coachgeo** » Sat May 23, 2015 1:29 pm

So you've secretly been wrenching in a cave somewhere like an evil scientist

Now you've stepped out to show the world an evil plan is underway to strike fear in all of mankind. Course you also are sharing it with the rest of us evil crazy diesel bikers so you must not be all that bad

Glad to hear you got a project to keep you busy and productive. Kudos to you

Post by **Stuart** » Thu Nov 10, 2016 10:53 pm

Here are the plates coming together with the bell housing. Close to finishing this part so will get another shot up when I have.

henneberg · Post by **henneberg** » Sun Nov 13, 2016 2:56 pm

Hi Stuart,

How thick is the bell house plate, and most important, the width of plate, e.g. the distance between the adaptor plates.

Post by **Stuart** » Tue Nov 15, 2016 6:20 pm

Gearbox plate = 8mm
Engine Plate = 6mm
Bell house thickness = 10mm
Bell house length = 111mm

I'm sailing close to the wind to get full starter motor engagement on the flywheel/BMW clutch clearance. Anticipate having to remove more metal.

Wish I hadn't had the Gearbox plate holes laser cut out at M8 (same as gearbox fixings) as I'd like to have screwed into that plate. Opening up gearbox holes to M10. The two keyway holes will have to stay at M8.
No guarantee this will all work of fit in a bike as I don't have one yet lol.
Last night I fitted Hubert Teller's gear set into my K series box.

touchwoodsden · Post by **touchwoodsden** » Fri Dec 09, 2016 4:11 pm

Stuart wrote:........
Last night I fitted Hubert Teller's gear set into my K series box.

Middle gear needs a big squeeze to get it on and off the shaft doesn't it?
J

touchwoodsden · Post by **touchwoodsden** » Fri Dec 09, 2016 4:11 pm

Stuart wrote:........
Last night I fitted Hubert Teller's gear set into my K series box.

Middle gear needs a big squeeze to get it on and off the shaft doesn't it?
J

Post by **Stuart** » Sun Dec 11, 2016 7:57 pm

touchwoodsden wrote:
Stuart wrote:........
Last night I fitted Hubert Teller's gear set into my K series box.
Middle gear needs a big squeeze to get it on and off the shaft doesn't it?
J

Sure does!

Post by **Stuart** » Wed Jun 24, 2020 10:24 pm

Busy during Lockdown! Hope to put an oil cooler over that plate.
https://youtu.be/gRZtvT8KRU0

Other side
https://youtu.be/YguM6HQ01gw

mark_in_manchester · Post by **mark_in_manchester** » Tue Jun 30, 2020 9:45 pm

Wow, looks good!

I think a mini radiator might be OK for the non-turbo engine. Mine gets hot if I use boost for any time at all, and I've just bought a big thick aftermarket mini alloy radiator, so we'll see if that does much good when it arrives. I think I have a leaky headgasket, as always. There's a head on ebay, cheap, at the moment - but as always there are splits in it between the valves.

Post by **Stuart** » Fri Jul 10, 2020 7:53 pm

Ok, so you’ve seen that head. I won’t send you a link then lol.
I need to get some lower handlebars & levers which can fit easily to them at 22.3mm dia. I have bought some switches off eBay but now need a decent throttle with big bike brake fluid container & clutch that takes the K 10mm dai nipple.
I’ve removed the gubbins on top of the injection pump but have yet to take the cold weather stuff off the side of it.

mark_in_manchester · Post by **mark_in_manchester** » Fri Jul 10, 2020 9:35 pm

Here you go - you can see where the rad goes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nACn_W32nF4

I was wrong / had forgotten - the rear-facing outlet on the steel coolant tube on LHS is normally for the bottom of the radiator. This one I blocked, and instead used lumiweld to solder a 1" alloy tube into the front of that 90 deg 'knuckle' you can see at the front of that steel tube, which goes into the water pump. This goes to the bottom of the radiator, instead. This leaves the rear-facing outlet towards the bottom of the thermostat housing, and the right-facing end of the steel tube at the rear of the engine, as the 2 car heater connections to block off.

The oil cooler around the base of the oil filter housing only has one external connection - a short near vertical rubber pipe which connects to a stub on the underside of the the steel coolant tube at rear of engine.

I don't know what resistance the oil feed to the vac pump normally sees, and whether you have a restriction in your line direct to the drain, to suit. I don't know if not having an orifice in there might upset the oil pressure.

This feels like a long time ago. Well, I started when my eldest was born, just 15 in April. Where does the time go. Your bike looks a lot nicer than mine

Post by **Stuart** » Sat Jul 11, 2020 6:44 pm

Ok cheers. I may do some drawings & pm to you in the week or whenever. Nothing like a drawing!

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