My Track T-800cdi (Bert's!) 3,2

[BertTrack]

Thanks Sean,

I finnaly got it out of the shed for a test ride yesterday.

https://youtu.be/0StoaSSb6qc


Got a leaking radiator again. The new one. Something's up with the vibrations or the way it's fitted in that location. Both the original and the new one broken in the same spot.

The driveline however rides very nicely. Just need to give it a tad more space.

[BertTrack]

Good news the radiator is fine. I just spilled some liquid on it when filling it up. Phew.

The back end has been returned to the firm that put in the gears. They need to reshim it.

On the throttle it was ok. Off the throttle, the ingoing axle moved too much so it sounded like a starting lorry from the old days.

I have taken enough material from the backend to have plenty of room so i can exclude that as cause.

[BertTrack]

A little update.

I have gotten the final drive unit back from the company that had to readjust it. Turns out they allowed for too much play the first time.

So now it's putting it back on again and see what the noise is like. I hope to ride it to Hamm this year.

[Diesel Dave]

Good to hear that Bert, it's just not the same with you riding other bikes...

[BertTrack]

https://youtu.be/ye0U8P8wQ_E

A movie of that last run out. As usual. It's long and unedited.

[BertTrack]

Some numbers after another longish run out. I'm getting more and more confidence.

After this ride the bike smelled good like a tractor.

So rpm v.s speed.

Not set in stone as these vary a bit (say 150 rpm up and down depending on resistance (head wind etc))
2000rpm 50km/hr
2500rpm 80km/hr
3000rpm 100km/hr

Quickly able to reach 140km/hr but didn't try that long enough to see if it would climb more. It was at 4000rpm and it had only done 15 km's from starting. After about 30 km's more with the belt heating up a bit it felt a lot more grippy. And the c.v.t seemed to get used to having it's full range to go through.

Temperature stayed good. I'm thinking it's a sweet bike to ride up to 120km/hr. Tomorrow i'll do some more testing.

[BertTrack]

RPM engine Speed RPM cvt Ratio cvt
1300 15 416.67 3.120
1500 18 500.00 3.000
1800 26 722.22 2.492
1900 36.5 1013.89 1.874
2000 51 1416.67 1.412
2200 61 1694.44 1.298
2300 69.5 1930.56 1.191
2400 74.5 2069.44 1.160
2500 78.8 2188.89 1.142
2700 89.4 2483.33 1.087
3000 103 2861.11 1.049
3200 110 3055.56 1.047
3400 120 3333.33 1.020
3600 128 3555.56 1.013

Got this data in real life. On the Dutch flat roads. Not bad. But the noise in the driveline is too much so i'll be taking it apart again.

Vid with the noise on it. It's pretty bad. https://youtu.be/MYS73Z6z0xQ

And the collecting of data went like this https://youtu.be/nGorPMQQTmw

[BertTrack]

Brought the cardan (final drive) to a specialist. He opened it and noticed it's sharpening it's teeth. Consistent with what i felt/heard.

He is getting it sorted out and then it's riding time.

[BertTrack]

Some info:

GDTuning in Diksmuide Belgium determined the parts used was from a K75.

As seen on http://www.largiader.com/articles/gearing/ as seen on this page that is not an option for my rear hub. I needed the R850R one.

I shall contact the people who put this together after i specified the R850R. Try and get some money back.

[coachgeo]

hmmm..... so they folk who rebuild it...... "pulled a fast one on you" or wait....... they "pulled a slow one on you" ?

either way..... it sucks... hope you get it sorted

[BertTrack]

The cardan is coming back again soon. New gears and adapted housing on the inside to fit the right gears inside. Should be alright then.

This has been cancelled because it's impossible to get a good fit in the cruiser housing despite everything. They've given it their best. Worked the housing a lot, and came to the conclusion that taking more material out is not structurally sound.

I will pack up the parts of the back end and drop by their place to talk about alternatives.

[plukenannabel]

found al alternative allready?

[BertTrack]

He tried to fit a K100 cardan on the joint part. But that would have been too much work, basically having a new joint made between the arm and cardan. So i'm cancelling the cardan upgrade.

The original cardan will be put together again as it was originally, and i'll ride it till it breaks something again. And then the diesel engine will go out and an electric motor will enter without c.v.t.

[boutje]

He tried to fit a K100 cardan on the joint part. But that would have been too much work, basically having a new joint made between the arm and cardan. So i'm cancelling the cardan upgrade.

The original cardan will be put together again as it was originally, and i'll ride it till it breaks something again. And then the diesel engine will go out and an electric motor will enter without c.v.t.

Why would you replace the diesel for eletric?

[BertTrack]

Because it smells, it shakes, makes a lot of noise, does not transfer it's power well to the road thanks to the c.v.t. which will go as well. I would accept the 3 first ones if the other would be good.
So with electric i can have a direct drive. No more loss of power in the driveline. And the frame is ample enough to house a lot of capacity.

[boutje]

I can not imagine that the power transfer problem could be solved.

[Bert in Weesp]

"The power transfer problem" is a very personal perception.

For I'm concerned the only excisting real power transfer problem is the lack of rubber after another 40.000 km.



Bert.

[BertTrack]

Time for an update.

So i've gotten back the old cardan in parts. It's been modified by that first company too much to be put to use. I did buy a K100 cardan with shorter ratio inside but would have to adjust the rear joint piece to be able to fit the 4 hole connection (BMW cruiser has 6 holes).

So i opted to buy a second hand cardan complete.

Now i've started the process to get it back on it's wheels again and see where it'll take me.

In doing so i had a long hard look at the c.v.t. because, Bert in Weesp, explained how the shimming of the c.v.t. is done.

The Track c.v.t.'s can be axially alligned by using the shim plates that can be infront or in the back of the secondairy c.v.t.


So over the past years my Track has only been run without the rear attached. But with installed c.v.t.
As i opened the cover i noticed a wide gap between belt and primairy set sheave. 4mm aprox.

This combined with the knowledge gotten from Bert in Weesp let me to look into a way to shim that out of the system.

And given that the shimmable side is all ready fully forward and i'd need to get 4 mm more, i decided to look into the belt width.

It appears Gates has the same belt length with 4mm wider belt available. So i shall buy one to try it out.

As the length is the same there shouldn't be any difference in speed/ratios.


Straightening out the belt like this will do wonders i think for belt durability.


So reasoning this through (correct me if i'm wrong please).

The centerline of the new belt will be 2mm further forward. And the 4mm gap will be nearly gone on the primary side. Now as the belt leng is short enough to always be squeezed by the secondairy side and this will not change with a wider belt it will also put the centerline 2mm forward and open up the c.v.t on that side 4 mm more in total.

Theoretically i think that should do it.


Now in my enthousiasm i did pull the flywheel off the Track but it's good to be tinkering on it again.

[Diesel Dave]

It was good to see you twiddling spanner’s again Bert, although I do hope your roof beams are strong enough to support the bike dangling from that bit of rope...

Anything with gears in it - can be problematic.

[BertTrack]

But isn't that just a way to lubricate the chain? It's good to be doing something on it again.

I've futher deduced by looking at things that it would help the secondairy c.v.t.'s function to go with a wider belt. Because it will keep the little wheel in the slot. So no more, or less slapping around. It's almost as if it's designed... anyway i'll try.

[BertTrack]

Another update: Seems that the wider belt is definatly better. It's more efficient. And has more grip. Atleast that is what it feels like.

But now my fuel pump has started leaking. Probably because i've filled up with GTL diesel. So i need to remake a gasket.

More news later!

[BertTrack]

Another update:

Fuel leak is fine now. Using the old gasket and sillicone sealant.

And the c.v.t. is now working much better, thanks to the wider belt using the whole c.v.t. range the weights need to work in the first half cm as well. So the plastic cup needed to be worn in on that part as this was never used.

Now that it's worn-in, it's amazing the way it picks up and shifts so nicely.

Another benefit of the wider belt is that the secondary c.v.t. now is always under tension. And the little wheels that can come flying off are either caught in the guided path, or close to the helix ramp. So the impact of the wheels on the ramp is much less when starting out from 0.

Now that i can confirm that the belt/driveline is so good (did 1000km in a day event) it's time to adress the electronics.

As i had a broken speed sensor i had to take off the nose anyway and i knew that was the time to move the R/R to the nose section for better cooling. So while doing that i took off the c.v.t. fan and the electric motor came falling out without any fan parts. So I had to change that as well.

I'm currently done with the wiring to the nose and accesoiries. I bought a much smaller tunnel fan to make a much smaller cooling fan system. As the previous one was horribly over dimensioned. Also thanks to the width of the belt and shorter drive ratio in the carden the belt is not getting as hot as before. (Just popped into my mind: Wider belt has same contact area and more cooling area. So that will keep the belt cooler as well)

So i 'm almost done. I found some nice replacement switches for in the dash to control the heated grips/second headlight/c.v.t. fan. I'm probably never done with it. But it feels like i'm close. I'm also replacing a lot of the bad (some my own) electric connections by the superseal type.

[alexanderfoti]

Still plodding along ?

[BertTrack]

Sort of. It's been running well for a while and then i really wanted to sort the cooling system.

Originally it's got a 34mm connector on the engine inlet. Which is way too big compared to the rest. And i had this idea of cutting down on radiator surface and adding an intercooler.

So it's back in the shed and that's where i'm at now. Working together with a local company to put something together for coolant and air.