Smart CDI help please

[touchwoodsden]

Hello guys (and gals) thanks for letting me in here. I live in North Wales in the United Kingdom. I am not far from the English city of Chester (just in case any non-UK people are reading this)
I am building a BMW K100 motorcycle with a 2009 Smart CDI Diesel engine. Forgive me therefore if I ask some stupid questions.
Just to give a few background details in case anyone isn’t familiar with what’s needed, the Smart gearbox is not used and an adapter plate is made to go between the motorcycle gearbox (which is shaft drive) and the rear face of the Smart engine.
The engine sit bolt upright and the bottom of the sump is cut off to make it flat and give ground clearance.
The exhaust manifold and turbo assembly is turned upside down using an adapter plate. The turbo oil drain goes into the dipstick tube and the dipstick is no longer needed. There is an oil sight glass in the side of the sump.
The Smart clutch is not used and the motorcycle clutch assembly is mounted onto the Smart flywheel. The Smart flywheel no longer becomes a friction surface. This is necessary because of the rather odd way which the motorcycle gearbox (in this case) works having a very short splined input shaft and with the clutch operating pushrod going through the centre of that input shaft rather than around the periphery using a conventional release bearing. BMW did their own thing with this motorcycle!
Here is the clutch carrier installed on Smart flywheel

So, moving swiftly on, I have some questions about the throttle arrangement for the diesel motor and other things

The engine I have is incomplete and I’m trying to ascertain what is missing. I know the electronics are going to be a nightmare but I will buy a Specialist Components ECU and wiring diagram which gets rid of all the extra non-required connections such as the gearbox, EGR, particulate filter et cetera.

All the throttle assemblies photographs I have seen on the Internet show them attached with 4 bolts.

I have seen a photograph of the plastic manifold on its own with a rubber adapter on the end but nothing for 4 bolts.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2014-SMART-FO ... SweW5VGXO0

This what I have

I have searched on the Internet in vain for a parts diagram

My Smart Diesel engine is missing complete throttle assembly. I have nothing other than the plastic composite inlet manifold. Can somebody tell me (part numbers and photograph/diagram/illustration will be fantastic) what goes between the plastic inlet manifold and the pipe from the turbo?
The reason I ask about the throttle body is because I have seen these.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SMART-FORTWO- ... SwQPlV8Ulz
clearly marked 800 mL CDI.

It seems that as soon as you put the words Smart Car in front of whatever you’re looking to buy, the price trebles! Parts for normal Mercedes seem to be much cheaper.
Therefore, is there another throttle body from something else which could be substituted? I see that some people running petrol cars have replaced them and I happened to read a thread a short while ago where someone had used a Corsa unit but that was a petrol engine. Any suggestions in that respect be really useful.

Here is a photograph of the pump. Is this the only pump there is? Being fitted in a motorcycle, the tank would normally gravity feed to the fuel pump. Does everyone think that will be sufficient or should I put another electric pump in to feed the diesel pump? I guess the short pipe (with the little Red Hat) is the feed and the long pipe with a little Red Hat is the return. Is there anything magic about the feed and return or does the return simply empty back into the tank any excess pressure? Does anyone know how much pressure should be in there? The motorcycle had fuel injection and therefore there is a pump inside it which could be used but I think it would need a pressure regulator because it was originally to drive petrol injection.


Now for the really stupid questions. These cars have electronic pedal. Is there no mechanical connection between the throttle body and the foot pedal or is there some kind of box somewhere (not the ECU) which I’m going to need?

What does this zinc plated bracket do? It looks like it used to have a cable in it.


It’s going in a motorcycle and therefore there is no need (lots of fresh air around) for an intercooler. Also, the EGR is binned and the new Electronics takes care of that.

I think this is the old EGR take off in the zorst manifold which is going to be blanked. Can someone please confirm?

Finally, I know that the turbo runs on plain bearings. I am aware of the necessity for good oil. How much play (if any) should be discernible in the turbo shaft?
Yes, I know it’s a big and ambitious project but it has been done before and I know that it can be done and hence, it will be done. I am seriously committed to this and have already set aside the funds and got the motorbike and the Smart engine of course.
The clutch is already machined into the flywheel cannot be assembled totally until the gearbox is lined up. I will get the mounting plates laser cut next week.
Thanks for replies everyone.
Regards
James

[BertTrack]

On my Track there is only a mass flow meter between the turbo and the inlet manifold, the rest is plain piping. The injectors are electronically controlled. No cable controls.

[touchwoodsden]

Thanks Bert. Any chance of a photo please so that I know what I am looking at?
Regards
james

[BertTrack]

I hope this will work for you. Let me know if you need a picture of something else.

[UAofE]

Diesels do not have a throttle body. What you are/were looking for is a restrictor plate used to draw more exhaust through the EGR.

[touchwoodsden]

Thanks Bert
Aha. I spoke to Specialist Components and they say their ECU doesnt need a MAF or Throttle body/restrictor, just manifold pressure switch (which I have).
I am trying to figure out the wiring pin outs (I am a long way away from that yet).

Any idea what extra fuel pump is needed before the injection pump? I have the original pump in the BMW tank but dont know if it will need a pressure regulator reducer

[touchwoodsden]

Bertrak: is there another fuel pump inside the fuel tank of your Eva Trak or somewhere else or is the High Pressure injection pump gravity fed from the fuel tank? I am trying to cover all my question bases early on in this build process.
Thanks
James

[Bert in Weesp]

Inside the Track fuel tank is an electric fuel pump, as far as I know not a high pressure pump but just enough to pass on fuel to the high pressure one.
As long as the entire fuel quantity in your tank to be is above the high pressure pump inlet I don't thing you'll need a electric one at all.

[Diesel Dave]

So long as it's self bleeding...........or getting a bubble in the fuel line could bring it to a stop quickly?

Is there a return from the feed line (between the tank pump and the HP pump? This is the way they usually make cars self bleed if they run out of fuel.

[BertTrack]

Coming back to the turbo,

On the Track there is a pressure regulator build into the turbo so i think that should be the case for yours as well. If it's an original one.

[touchwoodsden]

Thanks for the replies. I don’t think that there’s going to be enough head of fuel particularly when the fuel level is low because the engine is tall and I don’t think there would be sufficient pressure to feed the injector pump.
As far as I am aware, the K 100 “in tank pump” runs at about 3.5 bar.
Because it’s used on the actual injection on the original bike there is also a return pipe already in the fuel tank.
I don’t know whether there’s any kind of restrictor in the system which would make the fuel open pressure 3.5 bar or whether it would only run at 3.5 bar if the pipe was blocked off and pressure built up..
The way diesels seem to work is that the fuel is pumped continually around from the tank to the high-pressure pump and back to the tank again and the high pressure pump simply takes what it needs as the fuel goes passing by. I oversimplifying things?
The pressure regulator which Bert Track is being built into the turbo is the wastegate actuator.
Dave is absolutely correct in that you only need a small bubble to bring the whole thing to a halt. I had a tiny air leak in the fuel supplied to my high-pressure pump on my old Merc (leaky O-ring of all things) which led to me having to be recovered 150 miles home. All for the want of a horseshoe nail (or all for the want of an O-ring in this case!)

[Diesel Dave]

I've seen both types of system, a restrictor in the return line keeps pressure up to the required level but the pump also bleeds above a set pressure.

It's very difficult for a pump to deliver any pressure into an open ended pipe.

When I ran Berkeley T60 (3 wheels and a two stroke twin power plant), I added a fuel pump to the gravity system as they are known to run lean and seize when the fuel tank runs low - It was simple enough to add a twin spigot adapter to the carburettor and put a little squeeze clamp in the return line to vary the pressure.

On a mechanical injection system altering the input pressure to the injector pump has a direct affect on the injection pressure as you create a 'series' of pumps, I've no idea how this works on an electronic system though.

[touchwoodsden]

I know the Berkely T60. Excelsior Talisman twin motor from what I remember. A firm started remaking them in the late 1990s and I think they call it a Bambino but it never got off the ground. I remember the fibreglass quality being bloody awful. It was okay it was being produced in 1959 but not in 1999!
I would love to know what happened to it.
I made a few three wheelers myself http://www.bra-cars.com, about 250 or thereabouts although we did make a few that were ready built. All good fun but no money in it.
I think the thing to do with the BMW fuel pump “circuit” is to put a pressure gauge in the circuit to the high-pressure pump and play around with the return restriction until it gets about 1 bar. I noticed that there is a pressure reducer in the BMW injection system which is under the air filter to the rear of the throttle bodies. However, I believe it’s a bit of a bugger to get at. It wouldn’t have been that bad as the engine was out but as the engine now has a new home, it has gone. I’m certain the guy who bought the engine from me doesn’t want this as he was more interested in the sump, and the rocker cover than the whole engine (I sold it for a fiver but it was noisy!) But for the sake of buying a proper adjustable regulator, I think I’m going to leave the BMW one alone. I’m certain he would pop it in a jiffy bag back to me if I asked. I suppose the burning question is what pressure of fuel supply does the high-pressure Smart pump work at.
On a different note, I’m hoping to get the adapter plates back this week. I have had them water cut in the end because it was cheaper than having them laser cut. I paid a hundred quid for the front and rear “bell housing” adapter plates in 8 mm mild steel, a new alternator slotted adjuster bar in 5 mm stainless (mine was missing and I couldn’t buy one cheap), a 10 mm thick stainless plate to turn the exhaust manifold upside down, a 4 mm stainless steel adapter plate to turn the turbo wastegate actuator through 180° (because the exhaust manifold has been turned upside down), 3 mm thick sump flange in stainless steel (because I’m going to get a new stainless sump made if the project is successful), a 3 mm thick water pump outlet retaining plate so that I can turn the water inlet outlet through about 90° so that the pipeline up better. It cost me 50 quid to have the drawings converted to CAD altogether, I don’t think that’s a bad deal getting all the stuff laser cut for a hundred and 50 quid.
The clutch is fitted into the smart flywheel and I hope to have the engine mated to the gearbox by next weekend. I have already made the lining up mandrel and have some ideas how to centralise the engine to the gearbox using several DTI’s to detect play on two different planes. A bit like setting top dead centre for ignition timing.
Then I got to sort the front engine mountings and I’m going to triangulate some parts of the frame but is no reason to get those laser cut, I will just get them guillotined in 3 mm mild steel.
I should be on target to have the engine fitted in the bike for the end of the month.
It’s the wiring that I’m not looking forward to but the more I look at the Specialist Components sheet, (subject to a dozen queries which I think will be easily resolved on the telephone with them), the more I am relaxed with it.
I’m taking lots of pictures and have already got lots of words on pc I’m going to post them up when there is something deep and meaningful… And substantial!
Regards to all.

[BertTrack]

Hidden in this pdf a study report are some gems of knowledge about the OM660 engine.

https://qspace.library.queensu.ca/bitst ... MASC_r.pdf

[touchwoodsden]

My Specialist Components ECU and IDM arrived today in a pretty little box, delivered by a man in a red coat (it seems they rarely wear hats now).
Along with it was a piece of paper which is a painful reminder of exactly the cost of that box was.
Still, I remember buying an engagement ring once (26 years ago) and the box was much smaller and actually the same price!
Of course, I no longer have the benefit of the engagement ring box but that's a story in itself.
I'll post some pics of what we get for our money when I get time to upload them.

[BertTrack]

Very curious! I am