My Track T-800cdi (Bert's!) 3,2

BertTrack · Post by **BertTrack** » Sat Mar 15, 2014 12:10 am

After another ride i can confirm that with the original helix parts, the new larger rolls, the 3 ratio gear hub, the new gates belt and the 102 gram weights: It's riding like new.

The clunk is still there as always with this system. I shall look deeper into the possibility of adding rubber to the helix.

New up after that is placement of an alternator and waterpump from the normal smart diesel engine. Moving the tunnel fan for cooling of the c.v.t. to the area above the c.v.t. and make that switch off with the key and button.

BertTrack · Post by **BertTrack** » Sun Mar 30, 2014 5:35 pm

I've done some testing with rubber on the new helix parts and it runs well. No clunk and nice rpm's over the whole line.

But the rubber i picked can't handle the shear force. So it's time to go rubber hunting. I hear they are found in trees.

BertTrack · Post by **BertTrack** » Mon Mar 31, 2014 4:53 pm

Well i don't want to be too quick but..

I think i cracked it. Or rather the wheel has started spinning. Or things have fallen into place.

This morning i put the Track back together using the original helix parts and i noticed how well the c.v.t wheel spin. They've never done that before and i could imagine that there would be a difference.

I never could begin to imagine the big difference in ride quality. Because the c.v.t. can now shift much easier back and forth it's shifting up (high) very easily when i don't need to use much power. Cruising 130km/hr @ 3600 rpm. 150km/hr top speed and more..

It shifts down fast too but i guess i'll have to ride around that. Take it easy on acceleration.

There is still that clunk but i think i'll give this belt a chance first because it hasn't worn in yet. I have found that during take off i just limit the rpm to 1200/1400 and the clunk is much less.

So on to the next thing. Electrics..

BertTrack · Post by **BertTrack** » Wed Apr 09, 2014 6:58 pm

With the c.v.t. sorted i am going to move on and do the dynamo.

It's time to get amps. So here are the before pictures.

BertTrack · Post by **BertTrack** » Thu Apr 10, 2014 5:43 pm

BertTrack · Post by **BertTrack** » Fri May 02, 2014 9:02 pm

Well it works!

I now have enough electricity to run a fair even when idling. 14+ volts.

Just needs to find a better way to get the air out of the cooling system and then i'm done with that. And onto final assembly and then.. making a cover. ahum dreaded activity.

BertTrack · Post by **BertTrack** » Mon May 19, 2014 1:50 am

I have gotten it to work nicely now.

Redid the coolant hoses to it de-airs nicely. The alternator is just how it's supposed to work. 14.2 volts at idle. No matter what i switch on.

More work on it tomorrow.

BertTrack · Post by **BertTrack** » Tue May 20, 2014 4:29 pm

I've glued the secondary axle into the secondary c.v.t.

Taking all the play out of those parts. I've only done a short run but already i have no more clunk at all. Finally my drive line is solid.

The electrical system is also working. It starts much better now with the extra ground wire from the engine to the frame ground point. And charging is good too.

Now all i need to do it Mc. Guyver my cooling fan for the c.v.t in place. No problem! And cover up the belt and alternator.

Post by **alexanderfoti** » Tue May 20, 2014 4:53 pm

how did the track charging system work before, was it stator, or by alternator?

BertTrack · Post by **BertTrack** » Tue May 20, 2014 6:31 pm

A normal motorcycle 3 phase alternator with separate rectifier/regulator on the frame.

BertTrack · Post by **BertTrack** » Wed May 28, 2014 8:47 pm

Cover done in Lexan plastic. Nice stuff to work with even when i'm miffed about working with it. Hmmm

Well it's covered up and i still see stuff move. Good!

Discovered a small coolant leak on one of the standard clamps from the original setup. So i'll replace all those with the special ones. Then i'm done.

BertTrack · Post by **BertTrack** » Thu Jun 05, 2014 9:14 am

http://youtu.be/mzvUUT6V_-s

Stationairy test of the Track. Pre test ride

BertTrack · Post by **BertTrack** » Thu Jun 05, 2014 9:18 pm

After 10km's on the road i noticed this:

I went home again to find the problem.

So the afternoon was spend trying to find the cause and fixing the temperature sensor.

The broken wire was soldered and covered in heatshrinktube and silicone sealant.

And finally fitted it together again.

Apparently the silicone coolant hoses can be fixed by applying a small amount of silicone sealant. I'll see how long it holds.

I then went for a evening ride and the bike runs well for atleast 100km now. So i'll check it tomorrow in the light again.

BertTrack · Post by **BertTrack** » Tue Jun 10, 2014 6:40 pm

I had to redo some connections because i lost a coolant hose connection hehehe.
And solder/insulate the broken temp indicator wire.

But since then it's been running well. Except vibrations. I hope the steering weights i ordered come in soon enough. Otherwise i may have to remake the engine mount to the original first form which didn't cause much vibration.

Cooling: Good (Temperature indicator gives good values and is reliable)
Electric: Voltage remains 14,0 minimum even with all stuff switched on.
CVT: clunk again maybe the glue came loose on the axle. Temperature only rises above 100km/hr otherwise stays within 15 c of exteriour temperature. Will need to place that fan sometime.
Ride: Good except the vibrations. Need to check alternator pulley since it's crooked on the axle (new) and possibly new engine mount.

BertTrack · Post by **BertTrack** » Mon Jun 16, 2014 8:11 pm

Gotten a replacement dynamo/alternator. Axle was bend. No damage to the pulley so it's under guarantee.

Those old pesky coolant hoses sweat too much to my liking to i'm replacing those. I keep telling myself that it's just one more thing.

I noticed the c.v.t started to clunk again (the glue job of the axle possibly) another one on the list.

BertTrack · Post by **BertTrack** » Wed Jul 02, 2014 10:56 pm

Well i'm done with it. For now.

It's going on the back burner.

http://youtu.be/YmQCL7MZBko

I'm going to go to honda and get me some proper wheels to ride on.

coachgeo · Post by **coachgeo** » Thu Jul 03, 2014 2:57 am

Bert your video expresses your frustrations well. Of the other Track owners you've come to know has their expereneces been similar to yours? Another words... did yours end up seemingly more the lemon out of the lot of Tracks that were sold?

BertTrack · Post by **BertTrack** » Thu Jul 03, 2014 8:48 am

Well, maybe.

If you take it back for service the producer will swap out parts and not tell you a thing. So you think all is well. (Belts, pipes, bolts, clamps, little c.v.t. helix rolls, helix parts, etc etc) So they could easily be all lemons.

I live 2.5 hours away from them so i thought it best to check it myself most of the times from the start. So i discovered a lot of hidden items.

I like to think that mine is more lemon. You know for the rest of the folks.

I recently saw Bert Weesp with his bike coming back from the Big knock, he has a brand new engine installed after he tipped it on the right side and had a minor oil in cilinder accident (like mine), the first thing i did was check to see if his heater line cap leaked. And it did. It's something i've reported back on almost from week 1. But still they use the same cap and clamp.

Someone who "discovered" that: tiewrap around the coolant channels of the radiator, to hold the fan up is a bad idea, lost his liquid and set in motion the producer urging us to come in for a fan replacement. So they all potentially had that problem.
*This guy got offered a new engine for 4000 euro's, went to court, wonl; excluding installation cost, which suddenly went up to 4000 euro...*

When i informed them about the oil in inlet situation when you drop it on the right side no actions were taken. Only when they were sued did they issue a warning saying "Don't drop it on the right" Even with a simple solution to that problem: redirecting the piping.
The producer did not correct this piping on other bikes (confirmed by myself on at least 7 other Tracks in service by them)

I think it's a mix of unwillingness (not skilled enough) to modify anything by them.

That engine support which broke in all motorcycles because of sharp corners: I got my replacement and found it wasn't sized right, had to take at least half an inch of material off to fit the radiator. I informed them about that as well, Bert Weesp went to get his replaced after mine and they had not corrected that and were seemingly unaware.

Eddy Wane · Post by **Eddy Wane** » Thu Jul 03, 2014 3:59 pm

Bert.
I have just watched your video, you looked very miserable indeed. If the bike was petrol you could set fire to it and solve all your problems. I can see why the makers are reluctant to sort your problems seeing as they no longer produce the bike. But I would have expected, out of goodwill, that they at least sort out the major issues you have had. Taking companies to court does not always work out but bad press on the other hand may work wonders especially if they are trying to get a new venture up and running.
You mention that the hoses sweat too much. Are they the new silicon ones?

BertTrack · Post by **BertTrack** » Thu Jul 03, 2014 5:08 pm

Hi Eddy,

At the big knock of 2012 they told me that they'd replace the bike for free if... they sold enough in the future. Indicating they didn't think it would be worth their time to solve the issues with this bike. I have asked them about a decent electrical charger. They never replied on that topic so i took matters in my own hands and now have ample electrical power. I had to redo part of the piping because of it. And that's when i found the cause of the coolant smell that always hung around the left side of the bike.

The old silicon hoses were fitted with one fibre layer only. And they start sweating with the smallest of abrasions. All the red ones are new and don't leak. (fingers crossed) I will make sure that no hose rubs against other parts without adequate protection.

Bad or good press it's what they made of it. I have given them bad press al right. Based on facts. Informed them of their error before I came out etc. Only to find out they don't take the knowledge to the next bike. Instead just wallop in what they have established thinking they can't be at fault.

This is the company that used a piece of inner-tube to seal the shaft drive unit from outside harsh conditions rather than use a universal CV joint boot. I put one on mine and it will take a beating before cracking unlike a UV vulnerable piece of inner tube. Since then they have continued the inner tube line. I guess changing it every 15000km is acceptable to them. (take off rear drive line)

Of course technically it's not a fault of theirs. it's one way of dealing with a weak point (joint). But to sell an inner tube protected bike as a go anywhere do anything world vehicle... Not quite.

Eddy Wane · Post by **Eddy Wane** » Thu Jul 10, 2014 11:06 am

Bert.
I have been reading your old posts about the helix rubber. Did you fit this rubber yourself and what is designed to do? You say that the rubber used isn't tough enough for the job. A friend of mine had a rubber lining company that coated metal objects, very large industrial pumps for example, and when the rubber had been fixed to the parts and then cured it became very hard wearing. There must be similar companies where you are that could this type of job for you.
Eddy.

BertTrack · Post by **BertTrack** » Thu Jul 10, 2014 4:34 pm

Hi Eddy,

At the time i used the rubber to keep parts from hitting each other too hard. A side effect was that it forced the wheels to roll over the helix which never had happened before. And ever since then my c.v.t has been shifting as it should so the rubber has no need any more.

It provided me with knowledge is the ultimate answer of it's function.

BertTrack · Post by **BertTrack** » Mon Jan 05, 2015 6:50 pm

Got it.

So! The story continues.

coachgeo · Post by **coachgeo** » Mon Jan 05, 2015 7:13 pm

What did you source the new radiator from? Other one got road damaged?

BertTrack · Post by **BertTrack** » Mon Jan 05, 2015 7:50 pm

coachgeo wrote:What did you source the new radiator from? Other one got road damaged?

It's from a KTM 990 adventure. Almost the perfect fit.

The other one got stress damage. A leak a long time ago due to too much vibrations (after new engine mount part). This was repaired twice. Third time around i decided i'd save up for a new ktm radiator. So soon i'll be spending time working on the Track again.

Bj-torb · Post by **Bj-torb** » Mon Jan 05, 2015 11:36 pm

Nice Bert

hope to see a video of the Track running again

Eddy Wane · Post by **Eddy Wane** » Wed Jan 07, 2015 10:19 am

Hi Bert.
I was wondering when you would have another go with the Track. I (we) await your posts. All I can say at this time is .... Onnea!

BertTrack · Post by **BertTrack** » Wed Jan 07, 2015 8:06 pm

No big problems!

Eddy Wane · Post by **Eddy Wane** » Thu Jan 08, 2015 10:23 am

Oops wrong language Bert. I should have wrote "veel geluk".

BertTrack · Post by **BertTrack** » Fri Feb 27, 2015 6:16 am

Since i know the radiator will work out i decided to check the c.v.t. for play again.

I took it to a guy that used to race old Triumph's and has his own workshop, he builds a lot of parts from scratch. Quite impressive to say the least.

So we looked at the secondary c.v.t. which had been laying in waiting for a while. And the axle is connected with the c.v.t. so well we couldn't budge it with a big rubber mallet. There is no play on those parts. So happy!

Next step is putting the c.v.t back together and installing the radiator proper.

DieselBike.net

My Track T-800cdi (Bert's!) 3,2

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