Punsun Dnepr
Moderators: Dan J, Diesel Dave, Crazymanneil, Stuart
Punsun Dnepr
There are two videos of a Punsun powered Dnepr on a German site. I did a quick check of Stuart's and Rafael's sites and this forum and didn't find the bike. Here are links to the videos:
http://www.myvideo.de/watch/1608534 (riding around field)
http://www.myvideo.de/watch/1623935 (Starting./idling)
Cool!
FYI
Avery
http://www.myvideo.de/watch/1608534 (riding around field)
http://www.myvideo.de/watch/1623935 (Starting./idling)
Cool!
FYI
Avery
I like this a lot. It suits the style of the bike perfectly and the performance will suit the combo perfectly.
Can someone who's German is better than mine tell me if he has rubber mounted the engine?
If he hasnt my only concern would be the lack of some kind of head steady ( apolologies if their is one and i havnt spotted it).
This is a thumpy old lump and I would be concerned about fatique around the frame/engine mounts if only utilising the base mounts rigidly.
For those waiting for or looking at the Punsun I would give this serious consideration. Convenient mounting points are already machined into the head which are ideal to use.
Can someone who's German is better than mine tell me if he has rubber mounted the engine?
If he hasnt my only concern would be the lack of some kind of head steady ( apolologies if their is one and i havnt spotted it).
This is a thumpy old lump and I would be concerned about fatique around the frame/engine mounts if only utilising the base mounts rigidly.
For those waiting for or looking at the Punsun I would give this serious consideration. Convenient mounting points are already machined into the head which are ideal to use.
Fiddler,Fiddler wrote:Can someone who's German is better than mine tell me if he has rubber mounted the engine?
German is my mother tongue, I read through the posted forum link and although they talked about the engine mounting they didn't specify any details.
I send them an eMail though, will see if I get a reply and forward the info.
Andi
Andi
hi fiddler, if you follow zarquons link to dieselkrad, then click on the mehr Bilder link to the right of the photo, they've posted the photos of all stages of the build- looks to me like there might be another mount but i'm not too sure. i agree this is a really practical looking combo- i'm very interested! cheers, jon.
Thanks Andi.
If they are confident in their mounts thats fine, Im sure they know what their doing to produce such a build and it would detract from the Guzzi look somewhat.
I just thought I'd highlight it so that the guys waiting for their Punsuns can give it some consideration before tackling any frame mods. Personally I think its necessary, happy to post a picture of my solution if it would be useful to anyone.
If they are confident in their mounts thats fine, Im sure they know what their doing to produce such a build and it would detract from the Guzzi look somewhat.
I just thought I'd highlight it so that the guys waiting for their Punsuns can give it some consideration before tackling any frame mods. Personally I think its necessary, happy to post a picture of my solution if it would be useful to anyone.
- TimppaX
- I luv the smell of Diesel...
- Posts: 117
- Joined: Mon Oct 01, 2007 7:48 am
- Location: Finland
- Contact:
Just wonderin do they have unmodified gearbox & finaldrive.
According my calcs Speeds with my gearbox&final are somewhat like tihis @ 3000rpm & 19" wheels (km/h):
According my calcs Speeds with my gearbox&final are somewhat like tihis @ 3000rpm & 19" wheels (km/h):
Code: Select all
Gear Ratio Speed
I 3,6 27,33
II 2,28 43,16
III 1,7 57,88
IV 1,3 75,69
Reverse
4,2 23,43
Final 4,62 with sidecar
that should do it
836 cc punsun V-twin diesel engine
this v-twin engine is only 64kg with air-cooled.
it is 22 hp when 3600 rpm.
We are offering this diesel engine from China.
If you have interes, please send email to us frank715@gmail.com
Thanks
Frank
it is 22 hp when 3600 rpm.
We are offering this diesel engine from China.
If you have interes, please send email to us frank715@gmail.com
Thanks
Frank
Hi Timppax,
Could you explain your problem with the govenor a little clearer. From the brief description Im unsure if it is as it should be or you have a problem.
The throw of the lever is only very small, 10 or 12mm. Remember the engine is only really designed to have 3 speeds, stop, idle and flat out, so large lever movement isnt necessary.
Or do you need advice on converting this movement for use in a motorcycle?
Happy to help,just need a little more info.
Mark
Could you explain your problem with the govenor a little clearer. From the brief description Im unsure if it is as it should be or you have a problem.
The throw of the lever is only very small, 10 or 12mm. Remember the engine is only really designed to have 3 speeds, stop, idle and flat out, so large lever movement isnt necessary.
Or do you need advice on converting this movement for use in a motorcycle?
Happy to help,just need a little more info.
Mark
Hi Timppax,
If I find time later I'll scan a drawing or take some pictures but heres a starter to get you going.
Take a look through the arcives here. Im sure somebody has put up pictures of their solution. Also on one of the Yahoo groups for Diesel bikes there are some shots of somebody elses answer under the files section.
Ok heres what I did. Im not claiming its the best way but it worked reliably until the engine went pop.
First measure the total throw of the govenor lever from stall to flat out. Lets say its 10mm.
Second measure the pull/movement of the throttle cable from shut to fully open. Lets say its 30mm.
Third, make a very simple lever with a cable connector at each end, and the pivot somewhere around a quarter of the way along. Connect the longer arm of the lever to the throttle cable, connect the shorter arm of the lever to the govenor, when you wind the throttle 30mm the govenor moves 10mm.
Fourth, attach a spring to the longer end so it is sprung loaded and returns back to rest positively. This isnt strictly necessary as the govenor mechanism should be strong enough but I overengineered it so that I was confident the system would close if a cable got worn or stiff.
Fifth, as you do not want the engine to stall when you shut the throttle, make a very simple buffer with a bolt, two nuts and a small spring. The govenor cable end of the lever rests on this in the idle postion. I have connected this buffer by cable to the clutch lever on the handlebars (i use CVT). When I want to stop the engine, I simply pull the clutch lever and it allows the lever to move from idle to stall.
Lastly mount the lever somewhere convenient, mine is directly under the seat. This allows me to adjust all the cables and the idle speed without difficulty and with loads of access space.
Technical desciptions are not my strong point, I hope this is clear. Get inventive if you like but this should give you an idea of what you are trying to achieve.
Cheers, Mark
If I find time later I'll scan a drawing or take some pictures but heres a starter to get you going.
Take a look through the arcives here. Im sure somebody has put up pictures of their solution. Also on one of the Yahoo groups for Diesel bikes there are some shots of somebody elses answer under the files section.
Ok heres what I did. Im not claiming its the best way but it worked reliably until the engine went pop.
First measure the total throw of the govenor lever from stall to flat out. Lets say its 10mm.
Second measure the pull/movement of the throttle cable from shut to fully open. Lets say its 30mm.
Third, make a very simple lever with a cable connector at each end, and the pivot somewhere around a quarter of the way along. Connect the longer arm of the lever to the throttle cable, connect the shorter arm of the lever to the govenor, when you wind the throttle 30mm the govenor moves 10mm.
Fourth, attach a spring to the longer end so it is sprung loaded and returns back to rest positively. This isnt strictly necessary as the govenor mechanism should be strong enough but I overengineered it so that I was confident the system would close if a cable got worn or stiff.
Fifth, as you do not want the engine to stall when you shut the throttle, make a very simple buffer with a bolt, two nuts and a small spring. The govenor cable end of the lever rests on this in the idle postion. I have connected this buffer by cable to the clutch lever on the handlebars (i use CVT). When I want to stop the engine, I simply pull the clutch lever and it allows the lever to move from idle to stall.
Lastly mount the lever somewhere convenient, mine is directly under the seat. This allows me to adjust all the cables and the idle speed without difficulty and with loads of access space.
Technical desciptions are not my strong point, I hope this is clear. Get inventive if you like but this should give you an idea of what you are trying to achieve.
Cheers, Mark
- TimppaX
- I luv the smell of Diesel...
- Posts: 117
- Joined: Mon Oct 01, 2007 7:48 am
- Location: Finland
- Contact:
Short and crappy mobilephonevideo.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dSZtC8T-JQg
Meter states out charging voltage. Not suitable ampmeter available, yet.
It seems to be after all quite easy to modify to motorbike use.
Easy=no milling/heavy machinery envolved.
btw: it runs mixture of svo/biodiesel/dinodiesel.
No idea of mixture but lots of smoke
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dSZtC8T-JQg
Meter states out charging voltage. Not suitable ampmeter available, yet.
It seems to be after all quite easy to modify to motorbike use.
Easy=no milling/heavy machinery envolved.
btw: it runs mixture of svo/biodiesel/dinodiesel.
No idea of mixture but lots of smoke
that should do it