Chinese clone charging system questions, possible upgrade?

Wiring, Switches, Alternators, Regulators, etc..

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balboa_71
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Chinese clone charging system questions, possible upgrade?

Post by balboa_71 »

Hi everyone,
I posted this to the Diesel Motorbike Yahoo group, and wanted to post it here, so if you read it there, please excuse the double dose :roll:

I've been down about the lack of charging ability my 10hp
clone engine offers. For several years, I've had a Boyer single phase regulator/rectifier sitting in garage that I originally bought for my '99 Enfield Bullet 500. When I sold the Bullet, I kept the Boyer unit for future needs.
Well, today, I put my bike up on the center stand and did
some checking to see what the stock regulator (Chinese unit) was putting out. After starting the engine, I checked the single phase a/c and it was putting out around 15 to 20 volts at idle and even with faster engine speed (not full throttle). With the regulator connected,
I read 12 volts, but discovered that reading was because the positive lead out of the unit is hard wired to the batteries positive terminal, so I don't even know if it was working. Next, I swapped the stock unit with the Boyer and before hardwiring it in, it put out 15 volts at idle, but the a/c wires going into the unit got pretty warm quickly, so I shut the engine down and got it all wired into the system for a test drive. All went well and the wires didn't burn up. I ran with the head and tail light burning and there was no problems. The Boyer unit got warm (no cooling fins like the stock unit) and the wires were a little warm, but nothing hot.
My head light is 55 watts, tail light around 15 watts and thats it. I seldom use the brakes and almost never
use my horn, so I don't feel I'll exceed the Boyer's 180 watt maximum output.
Does anyone have an opinion about this conversion?
I'll continue to test the unit and measure for battery voltage drop....reporting back my findings :wink:

Cris
1980 GS850 converted to 10hp diesel clone power.
2006 Jetta TDI for road work.
2007 Bonneville
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andrewaust
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Post by andrewaust »

Hi Chris


I'm running a Boyer regulator with my 10hp clone on the Enfield and have done around 5000 K's without any problems after a little tinkering.

The units will run warm and that's expected. I've mounted my unit inside the LHS toolbox to help draw some of the heat away also.

The actual stator won't charge if you use a slow idle, so I've put my idle up to around 1200 rpm.

If you would like more current I've been told the Yanmar stator fits the clone and they have a variety of stators to choose from. I don't know how expensive they are, so it would be a choice to either get the current stator wired for more current or purchase a ready made one.

The charging capacity of the bike is on that threshold of just being enough to get the job done.

Just watch your amp meter - if it swings to the left its draining your battery, if it swings to the right and then settles just to the right side of the center marker it's doing its job well. If you have indicators on the bike it's normal for the amp meter to go into wiper mode when using them! ............ lol .



Cheers

Andrew :wink:
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Post by Ih8Suvs »

I am using the Yanmar 15 amp dynamo and the stock regulator/rectifier that was native to my 2000 Royal Enfield. It works very very well, more than enough to power everything just off idle. In fact the only time I see the ammeter go to discharge is at a very low idle when cold with everything (headlamp, taillamp, brake light and turn signal) on. With a dead battery it will near pin the ammeter at full charge while cruising. You could also use buy and use the Yanmar regulator/rectifier unit if you need to, function would be the same.

The price of the dynamo was about 60 ish USD, and Yanmar regulator/rectifier was also around 60 ish USD.

Be aware though, Yanmar also offers a 3 amp unit. You don't want that one.

Tim
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balboa_71
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Post by balboa_71 »

Guys,
Thanks for the replys and Yanmar parts advice!! Since I installed the Boyer box, things have changed for the better: bright head light and fast starting. This indicates the stock clone r/r unit is either crap or designed to work with engine operating are full speed (probably the case).

Had to pick up a perscription at the local Walgreens tonight...decided to drive my diesel bike up there and use their drive through 8) Pulled up to the window and finally some chic came over to help.... When she keyed up her microphone and speaker, boy did she get an ear full of clatter and racket, poor thing couldn't hear a word I was saying (she looked disgusted), finally, I motioned to my debit card indicating she could get my name from it and sent thru the drawer. Didn't have to answer their normal questions or even sign a receipt, she just gave me my script and off I went :wink:

Cris
1980 GS850 converted to 10hp diesel clone power.
2006 Jetta TDI for road work.
2007 Bonneville
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andrewaust
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Post by andrewaust »

Hi Cris


Great to see everything is working OK! Yeah I think the stock regulators which come with the engine are a little on the crappy side.

The Boyer regulator does the job for me, although I'm thinking if I dropped a 100 W halogen globe in the headlight I might be looking for trouble.

Surprisingly enough the stock globe seems to do the job OK so I'll just have to be happy with that for now.

Be prepared to get heaps of attention when you ride around ......... lol :wink: sometimes its good to ride something that's a little different :D



Cheers

Andrew :wink:
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balboa_71
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Post by balboa_71 »

Andrew,
I think most bikes have problems supporting 100/110w headlights, regardless of make :cry: I've read a lot about wiring upgrade kits, etc. for various bikes where riders want to see at night (or be seen by cager's). Problem is heat and the melting of connectors, and second, crappy alternators that come on most bikes. Honda Goldwings are famous for burning up main stator connector and stator itself ($$$$$$). Some bikes even sport a separate a/c lighting coil to support the headlight on its own. Best system (IMHO) is something like the kits offered for older MotoGuzzi's where they mount a small Japanese car alternator on top of the engine and drive it with a belt. These systems seem to go a while before roasting the alternator (engine heat). You might want to try an 80watt head lamp and see how the system holds up.

Modern road bikes are coming out with 400w systems to support high tech ignitions and fuel injection; this technology really taxes a bikes battery and charging system.

Cris
1980 GS850 converted to 10hp diesel clone power.
2006 Jetta TDI for road work.
2007 Bonneville
richard coles
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Post by richard coles »

hi, i've just checked my charging system and I'm unlucky enough to have a 3 Amp generator . I've noticed the lack of charge now the mornings are darker (I need the lights on ),as i only have an electric start fitted,no manual start .
Can anyone let me have a website/ address of an yanmar /'clone' firm which can supply me with the larger amp generator .
It doesn't matter if its UK, USA or Europe based , then the infomation can benefit everyone .
May be a list of useful addresses/ websites could be an additional section to this forum . As its frustrating searching for a supplier of this or that part only to bring a load of rubbish up on screen ,then all of a sudden loads of hours have passed and your no nearer your goal .
cheers Rich
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Re: Chinese clone charging system questions, possible upgrad

Post by Nanko »

It also helps when you change the headlight.
XENON lights do have a much better efficiency , they consume 35 Watts and produce more light than a 55 W halogen bulb.
There are automotive conversion kits for sale , abt 150 EURO for a set of two.
More light , lower consumption , better life span , it only takes ~ 7 seconds to warm up

Nanko
peugeot TUD5 - MOTO GUZZI 16.500 km so far
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balboa_71
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Battery upgrade

Post by balboa_71 »

With winter on the way and not having quite the charging power I'd like, I decided to purchase an Odyssey battery for my bike. After looking at all their models, I settled on the PC625 which is priced a lot cheaper that other models sporting less CCA (cold cranking amps). This battery has 6mm studs which is the only feature I question, but has worked out pretty good so far. Most bike batterys have 6mm female threads....maybe this is why this battery costs less? Anyways, I'm able to drive around for a week and then put my battery charger (10 amp) on it for an hour or two, and she's topped off for another week of riding.
Odyssey model specs can be viewed at:

http://www.odysseyfactory.com/specs.htm

I did not buy for the above mentioned website. I did pay $79 plus tax (free shipping) for the PC625 and with a little online shopping, you can probably do better. If any of you want to know who I bought from, just sent a PM and I'll provide the information.

These batteries are built to offer good CCA for engine starting and be used as a deep cycle battery as well, which works out great. One could also use a SLA (sealed lead acid) type battery, but usually they don't off the CCA needed to spin an engine over.
1980 GS850 converted to 10hp diesel clone power.
2006 Jetta TDI for road work.
2007 Bonneville
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