Enfield Diesel conversion partlist

[Sphere]

I'm trying to establish the bits I need (save bike and motor). From what I gather people are using taurus inner primary case and longer transmission shaft. Can anyone explain why?

On the Altmann page it says Heiko has converted an Enfield without these bits. On the same page are drawings for a mounting plate, I think I will copy that one.

Then there's smaller bits like a new sprocket for the engine and modifying the gas lever on the engine.

Anything else?

[taildraggin]

The footpegs (hex rod) is longer to clear the wider primary case.

Someone else can chime in with a better answer, but I believe the Taurus (and yanmaclone) engines use the extended gearbox shaft to 1) center the engine in the frame and 2) provide an 'adaptor' (with the ring) between the diesel engine and inner primary.

Heiko's use of the stock inner and shaft is pretty slick. I'm just going the 'bolt up' way for ease.

Happy New Year,
- Charlie

[arnaud]

I,ve explained you these things several times, Maybe a worn out scooter as you mentioned before, is more suitable for you.

[andrewaust]

I cannot help you with the main question Sphere, I guess the guy might have made an extension for the original shaft etc.

My Yanclone needed the extended shaft, footpeg rod and Taurus inner primary chaincase etc.

I guess if you have access to a good machinery shop or self equipped with lathe, Mill etc, anything is possible.


A

[Sphere]

Hi Andrew,

Thanks for taking the time. Could you elaborate on your "etc." part? I have read your build on this website, it is helpful thanks

I always thought you have a genuine Yanmar and I remember you beating the engine to 4000rpm. Doesn't the clone ever complain

Making the shaft should be possible if I could get the right steel. But the inner primary Taurus case probably isn't.

I hear the TüV are really meticulous about centre of gravity of the engine, so maybe that is the reason why this is used in Germany. Altmann lists his adapter ring as 20mm thick: since the engine is mounted so low, would it matter a whole lot if the engine was off by this amount? I'm more worried about the downtube of the frame. It will constantly experience an asymmetric load and a running engine won't have a beneficial effect.

Cheers

I cannot help you with the main question Sphere, I guess the guy might have made an extension for the original shaft etc.

My Yanclone needed the extended shaft, footpeg rod and Taurus inner primary chaincase etc.

[andrewaust]

Yes my little tiny tach says I've had the engine at 4080 rpm, so the china engines will take a bit of a beating .

I've heard the Taurus inner chain case and shaft can be hard to get hold of, I'm wondering if/when these parts become extinct if one would have to look at setting up a toothed belt drive, similar to Stuarts twin.

The only other alternative is to find a way of adapting the original inner chain case, it looked like an absolute nightmare when I was doing my conversion, but in saying that, a tig welder and some good knowledge of aluminum fabrication would see something converted I'm sure.

Oh yes the etc's = you need to make up little specialised bits, like the cylinder head to frame bracket along with the throttle levers and such. All covered in the forum .




A;)

[Sphere]

Thanks

I have tried on ebay, genuine RE Taurus parts are on backorder (mind you they didn't say for how many years ) and the OEM versions apparently have quality problems, like poor fitting with the outer primary and resulting in leaks.

[snoopy]

I also need info about converting this without the extended shaft and Taurus cover. As it's possible I presume it means moving some of the foot controls etc a bit on the right side. I do not understand why one would go to the bother of moving it 20mm. Seems a lot of work.

Andrew

[Sphere]

Supposedly you end up with an engine coinciding with centre of mass more. In practice I don't notice it although I have yet to take it for an extended ride. Throwing all caution to the wind the battery has been mounted on the same side as the engine.

Just have the gear lever glow red hot and bend it, I think it won't matter much.

[DieselDan]

Subject: Enfield Diesel conversion partlist

I also need info about converting this without the extended shaft and Taurus cover. As it's possible I presume it means moving some of the foot controls etc a bit on the right side. I do not understand why one would go to the bother of moving it 20mm. Seems a lot of work.

Andrew

Hi Snoopy

Its possible; check this out. It may help. This photo shows that the lower engine mounts had to be cut. Its the little triangles that were sticking out. You'll know what they are when you remove the petrol engine.

This had to be done to use the original inner primary.

After that you set the engine at the right height and go from there.




I have 1300km on the Enfield D and its running well and motor is rock solid in there

[snoopy]

Ah superb this looks much better. I have the engine and bike ready to be converted, got any more pictures?

What sprocket size are you running on the gearbox to engine?
Where did you get your L100 crank sprocket from?

Is the alternator sacrificed and you use the diesels built in rectifier? I got this impression from the "riding on salad oil" website.

[DieselDan]

Hi Andrew

Sorry for the delay

Take a look at this thread http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=598776
Thanks to my brother who did the all important welding of engine brackets.

There's a video on top of page 3. Should give you plenty of inspiration


I'm still running the 16 tooth. I might put a 17 on later, but now its got a balance of acceleration and tops out about 90kmh (56mph)

The crank sprocket is from Renold. Its a duplex 25 tooth 3/8 pitch sprocket. Any transmission and bearing shop should have them. I got mine for $9 with a pilot bore, then had a local machinist bore it out to 1 inch with a 1/4 keyway. He also tapped a thread for a grub screw to lock the key steel on the diesel shaft.

Yes the Enfield alternator is not used. Although it could be, just need to bore out and key the magnet. I'm using the Diesels alternator hooked up to the Enfield rectifier. It charges only when going above 45kmh (28mph) in 3rd.

Charles from the riding on salad oil site made a regulator to just power the lights and not the battery. Lights only work when engine is running. From what I gather he does not have a battery even though the pictures of his bike show it does.

[Sphere]

Are you comfortable that the gearbox side is strong enough? I don't see a triangular construction for the bracket.

[snoopy]

DieselDan - superb!!!

I've got the same engine as you (can see from the yellow), I paid £264 for it without a starter (new).

At the moment I can not get the bleedin' alternator nut off. I've tried putting it in 1st to 4th and had my brother sit on it. The torque easily turns the back wheel. I then chained it to the ground anchor but it's still acting like a spring and the wrench comes off when I get it to about two turns.

[snoopy]

Oh well that came off quite easily once I'd jammed a rod in the primary sprocket. To infinity...

[DieselDan]

Hi Sphere

Thanks for concern. I thought it would be weak. The GB is bolted solidly to the frame so I think it should be fine.
There's the usual 4 bolts holding the bracket to the GB. The little triangles sticking out were sawed off to move the motor and use original inner primary.

Snoopy yeah thanks

By alternator nut, you mean flywheel nut?? Lotta torque on that bolt

If yes then one tip, try to get the 15 Amp Yanmar alternator in there and not the low output one. They are a bit dear but worth it from what others have said.

[Sphere]

Hi Sphere

Thanks for concern. I thought it would be weak. The GB is bolted solidly to the frame so I think it should be fine.
There's the usual 4 bolts holding the bracket to the GB. The little triangles sticking out were sawed off to move the motor and use original inner primary.

No, I'm talking about the plate you bolted to the gearbox and the other plate your brother welded to it with a right angle. I would expect this plate to flex, because it still has several DoF. I guess time will tell

[coachgeo]

...... because it still has several DoF....

hmmm?????
Diabolical octapus Flimmy?
Drunk ol' Farmer
Direction of Fraternizing
Direction of Fornication
Direction of Force(s) ... aint this same as one above?

[Sphere]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Degrees_of_freedom

Sorry working with mechanical engineers too much.

[snoopy]

So just to reaffirm, the shaft/gearbox sprockets are the same size and you downsized from a 17 to a 16 on the gearbox one that goes to the back wheel. This is the one people are recommending is changed to a 18.

Correct?

Andrew

[DieselDan]

Hi Andrew

Yes the diesel shaft sprocket is same 25 th duplex.
Depends where you will be riding, choose the front sprocket to suit.
After riding another 200km yesterday mostly flat i reckon i might go the 18th.

[arnaud]

Subject: Enfield Diesel conversion partlist

I also need info about converting this without the extended shaft and Taurus cover. As it's possible I presume it means moving some of the foot controls etc a bit on the right side. I do not understand why one would go to the bother of moving it 20mm. Seems a lot of work.

Andrew

Hi Snoopy

Its possible; check this out. It may help. This photo shows that the lower engine mounts had to be cut. Its the little triangles that were sticking out. You'll know what they are when you remove the petrol engine.

This had to be done to use the original inner primary.

After that you set the engine at the right height and go from there.




I have 1300km on the Enfield D and its running well and motor is rock solid in there

Dieseldan, i made the same mistaken, do not cut those traingles. You'd better weld the rest to the tranny plate. These plates are nessecary for frame stability. Now all the stengt is transferrred to the welds where the swingarm is mountedt in. Sit aside the frame and see what momentum is placed on it.

[snoopy]

I got the crankshaft sprockets and will get them machined this week. The only thing keeping it in place is the chain I take it, it will be free to move a little on the shaft, obviously not much. Correct?

[Sphere]

No the sprocket should be immovable.

[arnaud]

The sprocket is held in place by the bolt in the crankshaft. A little play is normal and some loctite will solve it.
Further, look at the topic 'subframe rupture'to enjoy your enfield (sub-)frame longer the lower gearbox plates which you partially removed are importand for frame support.

[DieselDan]

Hey Arnaud
Thanks for the heads up, I'll keep it in mind

Andrew the sprocket should have a allen grub screw thru the key way like this. It will bite into the key steel and wont budge.

[snoopy]

I have the same sprocket type as you, and a spare. Did you think of removing the extra metal on the front to save some weight or is it in some way required?

Mine is getting machined for Monday.

[DieselDan]

Keep the sprocket as is. It gives more weight on the left hand side and balances out the heavy flywheel thats on the RHS

[arnaud]

Hmm where did you get a sprocket like that? i was told they didn't came std. with such a shaft so i let a sleeve weld on a sprocket to fit the axle,..

[Sphere]

Keep the sprocket as is. It gives more weight on the left hand side and balances out the heavy flywheel thats on the RHS

That effect is likely negligable.

Snoopy, why are you having a perfectly good sprocket machined? Isn't there a standard one that "just fits"? I went to a hardware store and they could supply me with a myriad of sprockettypes, straight, keyed, and/or with taperlock bush.