So this weekend my precious ran its first laps. Unfortunately the first few tries the clutch could not disengage fully, so changing gear wasn't possible. Fortunately a diesel has enough torque to accelerate in 4th However, after some fiddling with the screw and nut in the gearbox end cover the clutch would slip like mad. I guess somewhere in the middle there is an optimum between good friction when engaged and still being able to shift.
How does one properly adjust the clutch?
'92 Enfield + Hatz 1B40: street legal, weld up stainless exhaust, check engine rpm and change final drive sprocket.
Adjust the clutch actuation arm so there is a good amount of movement and leave 2-3mm slack in the clutch lever free play. Make sure the cable moves freely with no kinks, some cables cannot be lubed as they are nylon lined.
Apparently it's possible to take the clutch apart by removing a retaining ring. The drum was beaten into submission with a nylon hammer and doesn't seem to wobble as much. Unfortunately the Minda handle won't lift the clutch still. About 14mm of cable is retracted, resulting into a lift of ~1.5mm. I'm going to look for another handle.
'92 Enfield + Hatz 1B40: street legal, weld up stainless exhaust, check engine rpm and change final drive sprocket.
If you have the higher Indian bars then don't route the cable through the casquette or you get a double kinked bend.
Always make adjustment at the pushrod adjuster rather than the cable or you will end up with a heavy action.
Use at least a 2 piece pushrod with a ball bearing in the middle.
If the clutch has been abused previously then 'dress' the edges of the plates and drum with a swiss file to remove burrs and digs or the plates won't seperate cleanly.
Use the rubber buffered primary tensioner bolt, all the diesel extended shafts run out of true so this will allow you to run some slack in the primary chain without the associated rattle.
Watch the outer casing as you operate the clutch and you will see the casing flex - all the indian ones do but some worse than others.
Make sure you lube the pivot (grease nipple on the top) and see if water is gathering in the outer casing - if so drill a drain hole.
Start with zero free play in the cable and let it out 1mm if it slips.
However, after some fiddling with the screw and nut in the gearbox end cover the clutch would slip like mad. I guess somewhere in the middle there is an optimum between good friction when engaged and still being able to shift.
