Adding altenator to yanclone

[TimppaX]

Have ideas having (car)altenator installed to my build, but still having the original system left in use.

Two batteries would be the easy way, but how to connect original + new to a same battery?

There should be some kind of diode or some other electric components beacuse otherwise unit/controller not proving current will turn itself to a cloud of smoke.

Any ideas how-to?

Two batteries in no more than matter of providing space for both of them and doing some extra wiring + tinkering where and how to use it.
carstereos, tv-system... (yup a portable TV + audiosystem in the sidecar is a must!)

[Sphere]

You have to do some serious bribing to get someone to come along with you

[IgorVigor]

I suppose it would be possible to have 2 alternators and only 1 battery all connected together but I can personally see the point...

what you could do, is setup your headlight and perhaps the brake/tail light from the alternator on the engine directly (no battery, just a reg/rec)

and then use the car alternator to power everything else...

[TimppaX]

Altenator tends to fail if connected directly to consupmtion. Needs battery to even the load.

Some heavy duty diodeswitches might work (assmilated from motorhomes/boats)

Secondary plan is to have small motorbikebattery run by original altenator to handle some funny extras not so important to driving (ie stereo, tv, cell/gps charger..) And use car altenator to keep bigger (car) battery happy. By that there is no risk to have flat (starting)battery if someone (=me) forgets to turn toys off at the end of the night.

a quick&dirty sneak peak cellphonevideo how win/punsun sits in yet unmodified frame of my K750M project.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PH0LbRXCR8A

[albertaphil]

For sure, I'm no expert, but why would you need two batteries? Why not just run the current from your secondary (automotive) alternator through an add-on rec-reg into the existing battery? It doesn't sound like the punsun alternator is going to overcharge your battery any time soon, and your add-on alternator won't smoke your battery as long as the regulator is working properly. Then just run all your stuff off the battery the way it was before. Both alternators will be putting DC into the battery, so you don't need to worry about phasing your alternators or anything like that.

I have an ex-army GMC truck with a 6.2L diesel that has two 12v alternators, and two 12v batteries connected in series to run the starter, glow plugs, and some useless accessory military plugs, while the lights and heater etc run off 12V. I dread the day when that system quits and I have to figure it out.

Or you can rewind the stator the way thundercougarfalconbird did in the thread just below and you don't have to worry about extra regulators, batteries, alternators and the required mounting. But you DO have to dismantle your engine and take apart something that works (albeit poorly) and make it not work, before you can hopefully make it work better. It's okay, I understand:-)

Phil

[johnfireball]

Hi,
You will suck up a lot of engine hp running the car alternator at full tilt powering tv etc.
Pulling a sidecar, will you get moving at all?
John.

[TimppaX]

no problemo with power - I´m aiming to 90kmph top speed - more becomes suidicial attempt with that construction. (done 110 - it´s like flying - no thanks - If I need to go faster, I´ve left home too late)

This project will partly be marketing my company thus tv + stereos + other gadgets + other fun stuff are added.

On the other side it´s a technical challenge + some green values mixed together.

[arnaud]

Do you really need an additional genny?
my yanclone genny works fine with the enfield regulator..

[TimppaX]

I´d like to be far far on the safe side when it comes issues having enough amperes available. Even though I´ll have 80A battery installed.

[tappy]

It really does depend what you're trying to achieve.
If you want a single battery then I'm not sure there's any point having two charging systems.
If both bike and car alternator have a regulator rectifier (the car one will probably be internal) then you can connect them to the same battery and the non-charging system won't be "driven backwards" because of the reg/rec. BUT, if the car one is outputting 14.5V, and the bike one is only ever putting out 13.8, then you'll never actually get anything out of the bike one anyway.. (or vice versa).

Conversely, if you want two batteries - one for general running and the other for entertainment, beer fridge, vibrating bed & hair straighteners etc, then just have the systems generally separate but with a ruddy great patch switch that allows you to jump a failed system off the other and vice versa...

[TimppaX]

gotcha!

That´s just one of my options. Havin "secondary" battery fully charged just for the occasion primary runs flat after some show off
I sell, among others, mobile tv sets, chargers, radios etc that runs directly from 12v.

Idea is to have smaller battery that runs dials and other not so power consumpting componets + act as backup starting battery.

With CVT it might be problematic to run bike in order to charge battery unless there´s some kind of mechanical clutch that allows engine to run altenator only without bike moving. There´s always a joker (drunken-I-know-it-better-than-you-type of a person) who twists accelerator if engine is running - just to hear the sound.

On campers and boats are twin charged systems where many altenators are connected to a connected battery/batteries. But space is limited since I tend to use my build as everyday basis driving not just show-offs.

One point is to build "awesome" soundsystem to sidecar (been working with sound systems 30years and counting) With minimal components. Just to show good sound doesn´t mean set of 12" subs and gigantic amps.(inside joke)