a few pix of my attempt to get more voltage output at lower rpm's.
so far so good, it can maintain 12.5 volts with the 55 watt headlight , dash light and tail lights on at 950 rpm, far better under then the 12 volts at the same rpm with the factory windings
Thanks for posting that up T.C.F.B, do you know what gauge wire you used?, might have to have a go at it myself. I think Yanmar charges an arm and a leg for what you have done yourself.
i got some 20 ga burn proof wire from a rewind shop, the chinese use 20ga as well, but they only cover each post with 1 1/2 layers, i put a full 3 layers on each post, if you go with a slightly larger ga wire your amp rating should increase as well.
if this fails i will try again with different ga of wire, its not a terrible task, it takes about 2 hours to , pay attention to the direction of each posts winding. there are 2 other things that can be done but would be difficult, smaller air gap between the magnets and stator and stronger magnets.
i have discovered the chinese regulators are set very low for voltage output, somewhere around 12.5 - 12.7 volts. i am using a single phase kawasaki regulator, they are set much higher upto about 14.7- 14.8 volts and use a voltage feedback for the battery, the lower the battery voltage is the more the regulator pushes into the battery
or find a local rewind shop, i got a couple hundred feet for free.
you will find that of the 9 posts on the stator 6 of them are ccw and 3 are cw, there should be 3 more cw but those posts are not used for spooling wire onto, they are the mounting pegs
Free copper? In this day and age? In Holland we've got copper robbers, stealing the wiring of everything and anything, including lightning guidance, railway lighting/signaling cables and what not.
Nice country, Canada
'92 Enfield + Hatz 1B40: street legal, weld up stainless exhaust, check engine rpm and change final drive sprocket.
Sphere wrote:Free copper? In this day and age? In Holland we've got copper robbers, stealing the wiring of everything and anything, including lightning guidance, railway lighting/signaling cables and what not.
Nice country, Canada
In sweden as well! They even strip old houses on copper rainpipes when the owners are not home.
its not much copper, porbably less then 1/2 pound total.
we have copper robbers too, but the market prices have dropped alot on scrap slowing this type of activity
my china genny gives 14.4, no problem.but, with the lights on, the Ammeter won't go to + under 60km/h in 4th gear.
But, since i do verything benbeath that speed in 3rd anyway, it poses no problem.
(32 K. and running well)
Great info. Exactly which single phase Kawasaki regulator are you using? Bike or model number, ect. I was thinking about using a stator and rotor from a Harley since they are plentiful and cheap on Ebay. Does it matter what direction the rotor turns on the stator or vise versa? Thanks.
I've discovered I can use just a rectifier without regulation and rely on the battery to hold the voltage - this is with a 4 amp alternator so I can also run without the battery so long as the headlamp is on.
The Enfield Bullet electric start models have separate rectifier and regulator units and are set at 15.5 volts so allow plenty of charge through to the battery at low RPM.
the regulator i used was from a 1984 kawasaki kl 250, part number 21066-1035 thanks to ebay, no longer available from canadian kawasaki, not sure about other markets
you can use a 3 phase regulator ,i.e kawasaki vulcan 800 if you have one or find one that is in the right price range, just leave one of the yellow wires open.
the reason i used the kawasaki regulator is i know what the wire colors are for, it simple with all modern kawasaki bikes
. white wire is battery power
.black wire is ground
.tan wire key on power / voltage sencing
.yellow wires are ac stator input
rotor rotation makes no difference in operation, be creative have fun and ride.
These are some things that would probably help other people too.
1. How do I determine stator output?
2. How do I determine wattage/amp requirements?
3. According to diagrams I’ve seen I have a singe phase stator? Only has two wires coming from it.
4. Can I use any regulator that can handle the amperage of my charging system?
5. Does the rotor’s magnet arrangement have to match the stator?
5. How many extra watts or whatever do I need to make sure my battery is recharging for my starter?
im not sure i can answer all those questions, but here goes ...
*a single phase stator is made of one long wire.
*yes any regulator will work some work better then others and yes you need something to withstand the current, with different preset voltages or voltage sencing.
*the rotor magents i never altered, just wraped twice the amout of wire into the stator, stronger magnets will also change output along with wire size and length.
*longer wire will make higher voltage output, thicker wire will give you more potential amps
im sure there are formulas for all of this, i am the sort that just does things to see what happens
how has this been working out? i am getting ready to put tranny and engine together. should i take an afternoon to do this first? do you think it will make enough power for heated grips and vest? or should i try to find room for a bitty denso off a belt?
the stator is working fine, not sure how much more load it can deal with, you might be better off to use the belt drive denso unit is you want to add heated grips and electric vest, i thought about a belt drive unit, and would go that direction if this system fails. have fun and be inventive , see what works and change what works to work better
I think i will do both. Run the bike off the stator. use the alternator for the heated stuff. maybe set up the custom variable regulator/field coil for it like the second alternator on the jeep. might be nice to have a 65 amp stick welder that can go anywhere the bike can.
It doesn't get as cold here as it does there, but it does get cold. i figure heated grips and vest, maybe even pants, could get me 7 or 8 months of nice ride time.
this stator mounts under the flywheel, like most motorcycles.
i am not sure of the amperage gain, or what the max output of my home made stator is, but the chinese claim 15 amps for this engine and it would not hold high enuff voltage at idle, after the rewind and the use of the kawasaki voltage regulator i have no troubles with electrics. just injection troubles that are being sorted out as i am typing this message.
my yanmar clone charges with a ebfield regulator to the + of the Ammeter from 50km/h in 4th gear with all lights on.. so no trouble with it..
With the original regulator it was a little less..
Why didn't you use the regulator/rectifier that came with the bike you modified?
My CB400 had a 3 phase stator whereas my ruggerini has a single phase. Is there any reason I can't just leave one of the yellow wires leading into the Honda regulator open (as you suggested) and just hook up the other 2 wires to the 2 wires coming from the rug stator, and have everything work the way Honda intended it to?
the gpz 900 did not have an external regulator, it has a smal alternator like a car and the regulator is inside, so i just used something im familuar with
Can I just hook up the 2 yellow wires from my ruggerini single phase stator into 2 of the 3 input wires of the existing honda 3 phase regulator and have everything on the bike work the way honda intended it to? This of course assumes the 280 watt output of the rug is sufficient.