Hatz Enfield build
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Hatz Enfield build
Now that my bike is actually looking like it might be on the road some time in the near future, I guess I should open a thread here. I would like to thank Nanko, who has gone out of his way to help me with critical bits (welding and machining), offering me a place to store and work on the bike and let me use his tools.
Current status is that we are hours away from first start. My biggest concern is that the primary case doesn't leak like it should, so something critical is bound to go wrong instead (following Murphy). Aligning the primary chain was not difficult, but the taperlock does not fully clamp the axle. Also the sprocket will shift slightly when you attempt to tighten the nuts.
The clutch seems to work fine, the gears shift, but I forgot to add a 1/4" ball inbetween the rods. I've also been advised to cut the long rod into 2 pieces and add yet another ball, to reduce flex/bending, which should make the clutch operate more smoothly. Unfortunately there are still several issues, mainly with the front wheel. It seems out of center after having it repsoked with SS spokes. Another slight issue is that the front brake doesn't function Front and rear suspension should be scrutinized before it will be roadworthy as well.
I treated myself to a tin of putoline wax, a mixture of wax and graphite (possibly other stuff). The chain looked pretty nasty, but rinsing it with diesel twice and boiling it in the wax really seems to have helped. The gearbox isn't oiltight yet, but I've ordered new bearings and Anorak_ian is patiently explaining how to treat an Enfield gearbox, by replacing several culprits with post-2001 components.
Well, it is time for some pics. Cosmetic upgrades will have to wait until I receive roadworthiness approval of Dutch authorities.
Current status is that we are hours away from first start. My biggest concern is that the primary case doesn't leak like it should, so something critical is bound to go wrong instead (following Murphy). Aligning the primary chain was not difficult, but the taperlock does not fully clamp the axle. Also the sprocket will shift slightly when you attempt to tighten the nuts.
The clutch seems to work fine, the gears shift, but I forgot to add a 1/4" ball inbetween the rods. I've also been advised to cut the long rod into 2 pieces and add yet another ball, to reduce flex/bending, which should make the clutch operate more smoothly. Unfortunately there are still several issues, mainly with the front wheel. It seems out of center after having it repsoked with SS spokes. Another slight issue is that the front brake doesn't function Front and rear suspension should be scrutinized before it will be roadworthy as well.
I treated myself to a tin of putoline wax, a mixture of wax and graphite (possibly other stuff). The chain looked pretty nasty, but rinsing it with diesel twice and boiling it in the wax really seems to have helped. The gearbox isn't oiltight yet, but I've ordered new bearings and Anorak_ian is patiently explaining how to treat an Enfield gearbox, by replacing several culprits with post-2001 components.
Well, it is time for some pics. Cosmetic upgrades will have to wait until I receive roadworthiness approval of Dutch authorities.
Last edited by Sphere on Wed Jan 06, 2010 12:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.
'92 Enfield + Hatz 1B40: street legal, weld up stainless exhaust, check engine rpm and change final drive sprocket.
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Re: Hatz Enfield build
More pics:
'92 Enfield + Hatz 1B40: street legal, weld up stainless exhaust, check engine rpm and change final drive sprocket.
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Re: Hatz Enfield build
Nice bike! Re-spoking wheels is the true measure of one's patience, but in my opinion there is nothing like a "real" spoked wheel.
Good luck with the authorities, luckily registration here in the US isn't so technical, mainly you have to show that in your build you didn't use any stolen parts and have to show bills of sale for major parts and that lights meet regulations. So far there is no noise measurement, etc. Then you are issued a "serial number" and a title shortly thereafter.
Good luck with the authorities, luckily registration here in the US isn't so technical, mainly you have to show that in your build you didn't use any stolen parts and have to show bills of sale for major parts and that lights meet regulations. So far there is no noise measurement, etc. Then you are issued a "serial number" and a title shortly thereafter.
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Re: Hatz Enfield build
I didn't dare respoking a motorcycle wheel. I have no means of making a good setup for trueing the wheel, the cost factor would also negate the benefit of saving on the bill, and I will more than likely never do it again. Best to have it done by the pro. Maybe I will do a wheel of a bicycle some day, so when it collapses I won't be run over by a lorry. I was already pretty impressed with myself that I managed to wrestle new tyres on myself
'92 Enfield + Hatz 1B40: street legal, weld up stainless exhaust, check engine rpm and change final drive sprocket.
- andrewaust
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Re: Hatz Enfield build
Looking good sphere!
From the posted pics the majority of fabrication has now been done, meaning not long to go until you get to ride .
PS: Yeah not keen on re-spoking wheels, I'm replacing spokes as they break ............. loll !!
A
From the posted pics the majority of fabrication has now been done, meaning not long to go until you get to ride .
PS: Yeah not keen on re-spoking wheels, I'm replacing spokes as they break ............. loll !!
A
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Re: Hatz Enfield build
Today was the big day at Diesels-R-Us. First the tank was rotated for 90 minutes with a special brew of tapwater, citric acid and the contents of a medium sized vegetable tin of... well, err, nuts and bolts. The brave little electromotor performed wonderfully, and didn't complain when we reversed the polarity. Stir for another 90 minutes, and voila: less rusty innards, and even shiny in some spots.
The Hatz fuel filter was fitted behind the gearbox, close to the fuel lines to the engine and the tank tap. Connecting them and filling the tank with diesel, it was now time to listen to her roar. Unfortunately kickstarting didn't yield a running engine, so the bike was pushed outside. Put her in 4th, and yours truly pushed the bike while Nanko was at the controls. This proved to be a very good tactic. The engine started to huff and puff, as I pushed even harder. This is the point where I should tell you about the first time I heard the engine run. And how Nanko rode it on icy concrete slabs for short stretches in the gloomy light of nightfall, without a functional front brake.
Regrettably, I cannot. It seems every time the engine hit (close to) max compression the clutch slipped. My precious had failed me. It seems my 3 plate clutch requires tinkering. To be continued
The Hatz fuel filter was fitted behind the gearbox, close to the fuel lines to the engine and the tank tap. Connecting them and filling the tank with diesel, it was now time to listen to her roar. Unfortunately kickstarting didn't yield a running engine, so the bike was pushed outside. Put her in 4th, and yours truly pushed the bike while Nanko was at the controls. This proved to be a very good tactic. The engine started to huff and puff, as I pushed even harder. This is the point where I should tell you about the first time I heard the engine run. And how Nanko rode it on icy concrete slabs for short stretches in the gloomy light of nightfall, without a functional front brake.
Regrettably, I cannot. It seems every time the engine hit (close to) max compression the clutch slipped. My precious had failed me. It seems my 3 plate clutch requires tinkering. To be continued
'92 Enfield + Hatz 1B40: street legal, weld up stainless exhaust, check engine rpm and change final drive sprocket.
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Re: Hatz Enfield build
Good things come to those who wait. Well, I'm fed up with waiting, but it'll be at least a few more weeks, before the postman knocks on my door... a 5 plate clutch, with heavy springs
Rumor has it that the 5 plate version of the enfield bullet clutch can be achieved by ordering clutch plates from a 500LB (Machismo) but I'm not sure. I needed a complete assembly anyway.
Rumor has it that the 5 plate version of the enfield bullet clutch can be achieved by ordering clutch plates from a 500LB (Machismo) but I'm not sure. I needed a complete assembly anyway.
'92 Enfield + Hatz 1B40: street legal, weld up stainless exhaust, check engine rpm and change final drive sprocket.
- andrewaust
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Re: Hatz Enfield build
Yes I share your exact line of thinking, sometimes it's just best to go out and get what you need. Sometimes going the more cost effective route doesn't always pay off.Sphere wrote:Good things come to those who wait. Well, I'm fed up with waiting, but it'll be at least a few more weeks, before the postman knocks on my door... a 5 plate clutch, with heavy springs
Rumor has it that the 5 plate version of the enfield bullet clutch can be achieved by ordering clutch plates from a 500LB (Machismo) but I'm not sure. I needed a complete assembly anyway.
I think you'll be very happy with the 5 plate clutch, like that old saying goes, if it's worth doing well - get it done right the first time .
A
Re: Hatz Enfield build
Glad to see everything is coming along well Sphere - I'm guessing you'll be coming along to Hamm this year?
1990 Honda NTV600 Revere
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Re: Hatz Enfield build
Important things that require fixing still:
- clutch (should be easy now)
- electrics: purchase/install alternator, redo the wiring
- have the front wheel trued (take wheel back to the shop)
- fix the front brake - single leading break shoes of frontal collision of death - doesn't brake at all
- implement kill switch/mechanism to switch off the engine
- verify that the spring putting tension on the gas cable is rugged enough
- probably some minor stuff I forgot about
I think Hamm is easily doable, my hope is to have it on the road in April. But the 2nd weekend in September is coinciding with something else and I need to get that sorted.
- clutch (should be easy now)
- electrics: purchase/install alternator, redo the wiring
- have the front wheel trued (take wheel back to the shop)
- fix the front brake - single leading break shoes of frontal collision of death - doesn't brake at all
- implement kill switch/mechanism to switch off the engine
- verify that the spring putting tension on the gas cable is rugged enough
- probably some minor stuff I forgot about
I think Hamm is easily doable, my hope is to have it on the road in April. But the 2nd weekend in September is coinciding with something else and I need to get that sorted.
'92 Enfield + Hatz 1B40: street legal, weld up stainless exhaust, check engine rpm and change final drive sprocket.
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Re: Hatz Enfield build
So I came home tonight, after another day of C# course. Like always, I checked the front door for mail. Sadly, there was a note from the mailman that they had attempted to leave a package, but were going to try the next day
So I walk back into the living room and sit down on the couch, a bit disappointed. I'm making smalltalk with my gf, and she suddenly says, have you noticed that scruffy package?
So, without any further ado, I give you... the 5 plate clutch
So I walk back into the living room and sit down on the couch, a bit disappointed. I'm making smalltalk with my gf, and she suddenly says, have you noticed that scruffy package?
So, without any further ado, I give you... the 5 plate clutch
'92 Enfield + Hatz 1B40: street legal, weld up stainless exhaust, check engine rpm and change final drive sprocket.
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Re: Hatz Enfield build
So today was a good day. Me and my new found love, Ms. Five-Plate set out to pay Nanko another visit. After a nice cup of coffee we brought the Enfield to the shop. First, a suitable container was found to empty the contents of the primary case into. Blue for oil, green for parts, white for coolant. So the bottom half of a blue container large enough was put under the case, and I removed the spil screw. An unimpressive amount of 80W90 had accumulated, so I removed the cover. More oil. This design really could with a drain plug. I won't tell you about the part where I turned and dropped the container with oil, splashing it all over the floor tools and uhm... oh yeah Nanko
The taperlock was tightened pretty well. It took some dangerous bending of quality tools to loosen it up. The 3 plate clutch housing was next, and after it was off I grabbed the nylon hammer. Surely, putting on the new clutch required a lot of force. Or did it It slid right on, job done.
Except for the clutch rod, which was now too short. So it was cut in half with a metal saw and put in the lathe for a nice concave finish to accomodate a 1/4" ball bearing. Another ball bearing to top it off and now the clutch was operational! Well, not quite. It required some adjusting. Because I went looking for my Enfield workshop manual, Nanko could no longer contain himself: a manual... for such a menial job. So, now I still don't know how to adjust a clutch, but if you ever need help, I can give you his phone number
Some tasty lunch and more coffee called upon us, and then it was time to reassemble the primary case. This time I used some ATF, and filled up the case without the spil plug, so there is just enough to lube the chain and not drown the clutch. All plugs were screwed back in and it was time for first start.
Little did I know, Nanko had invited the crew of Destroyed in Seconds. Nanko was the crash test dummy, and I was pushing the bike with another visitor. It actually managed to start this time, and Nanko covered several meters, until we heard the ominous sound of metal falling on metal... and on stone. I knew Enfields were supposed to leak, but oil not parts
A quick inspection showed that they were in fact Hatz parts...
The taperlock was tightened pretty well. It took some dangerous bending of quality tools to loosen it up. The 3 plate clutch housing was next, and after it was off I grabbed the nylon hammer. Surely, putting on the new clutch required a lot of force. Or did it It slid right on, job done.
Except for the clutch rod, which was now too short. So it was cut in half with a metal saw and put in the lathe for a nice concave finish to accomodate a 1/4" ball bearing. Another ball bearing to top it off and now the clutch was operational! Well, not quite. It required some adjusting. Because I went looking for my Enfield workshop manual, Nanko could no longer contain himself: a manual... for such a menial job. So, now I still don't know how to adjust a clutch, but if you ever need help, I can give you his phone number
Some tasty lunch and more coffee called upon us, and then it was time to reassemble the primary case. This time I used some ATF, and filled up the case without the spil plug, so there is just enough to lube the chain and not drown the clutch. All plugs were screwed back in and it was time for first start.
Little did I know, Nanko had invited the crew of Destroyed in Seconds. Nanko was the crash test dummy, and I was pushing the bike with another visitor. It actually managed to start this time, and Nanko covered several meters, until we heard the ominous sound of metal falling on metal... and on stone. I knew Enfields were supposed to leak, but oil not parts
A quick inspection showed that they were in fact Hatz parts...
Last edited by Sphere on Sat Mar 27, 2010 8:38 pm, edited 3 times in total.
'92 Enfield + Hatz 1B40: street legal, weld up stainless exhaust, check engine rpm and change final drive sprocket.
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Re: Hatz Enfield build
This unfortunate incident forced us to retreat to the shop again, heavily debating what went wrong. Perhaps they weren't tightened, or maybe there was some vibration? We decided to try again, and while Nanko pulled another 6 8.8 grade bolts from the stock, we tried again. The Hatz bolts were 12.9, but for low speed, 8.8 would be fine we reckoned.
Well, it was NOT. With the gearbox in neutral and opening the throttle slightly, these bolts gave as well. To be continued...
Well, it was NOT. With the gearbox in neutral and opening the throttle slightly, these bolts gave as well. To be continued...
'92 Enfield + Hatz 1B40: street legal, weld up stainless exhaust, check engine rpm and change final drive sprocket.
- coachgeo
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Re: Hatz Enfield build
maybe I missed it in your report..... but what are the bolts that sheared holding together?
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Re: Hatz Enfield build
Woops, it's not in there. The flywheel.
'92 Enfield + Hatz 1B40: street legal, weld up stainless exhaust, check engine rpm and change final drive sprocket.
- coachgeo
- I luv the smell of Diesel...
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Re: Hatz Enfield build
How tight is your chain? I remember a recent discussion on the Triumph Tiger Board that the Tiger liked a little more slack than other bikes in its chain to keep it from creating a "clunk" when dropped into first gear. Would a "clunk" coming from the torque of a diesel might be enough to sheer things?
is your clutch adjusted too tight? Engaging too fast causing too much sudden torque? Maybe set it up to slip a little?
Either one of this as a potential part of the problem could be maybe be evaluated by taking the chain off. If clutch does not break with same strength bolts that has been tried so far when the clutch engages a non resistant state....???
the other thing to consider is what has these sheered bolts protected? if they had not sheered... what might go instead? Hopefully the bike... but it could instead.... kill the tranny? sheer a ???
is the tranny your using stuck perhaps? You've tested it works in all gears particularly first gear?
Just throwing ideas out. Im not a motorcycle mechanic... just a ridiculous thinker
is your clutch adjusted too tight? Engaging too fast causing too much sudden torque? Maybe set it up to slip a little?
Either one of this as a potential part of the problem could be maybe be evaluated by taking the chain off. If clutch does not break with same strength bolts that has been tried so far when the clutch engages a non resistant state....???
the other thing to consider is what has these sheered bolts protected? if they had not sheered... what might go instead? Hopefully the bike... but it could instead.... kill the tranny? sheer a ???
is the tranny your using stuck perhaps? You've tested it works in all gears particularly first gear?
Just throwing ideas out. Im not a motorcycle mechanic... just a ridiculous thinker
- Crazymanneil
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Re: Hatz Enfield build
Eek, a lovely collection of shortened bolts you have now! You are not taking drive off the flywheel are you? Guessing by the photos so far.
Anyway, whatever bolts you use make sure they are torqued up correctly. 12.9's will take quite a lot of tightening! Bolts are not meant to take a shear force, they work by clamping the two parts together by tensile force. Not enough tensile force and the parts will move and cause the shear force. Also make sure the parts are clean and free of any grease etc while assembling so they don't slide releative to each other. Good luck with this and I hope you get to the bottom of it (nervous for my own build now )
N
Anyway, whatever bolts you use make sure they are torqued up correctly. 12.9's will take quite a lot of tightening! Bolts are not meant to take a shear force, they work by clamping the two parts together by tensile force. Not enough tensile force and the parts will move and cause the shear force. Also make sure the parts are clean and free of any grease etc while assembling so they don't slide releative to each other. Good luck with this and I hope you get to the bottom of it (nervous for my own build now )
N
Smart engined 800cc turbo diesel triumph tiger. 100mpg (imp)
Belfast to Kathmandu overland, 2010/2011 - http://www.suckindiesel.com
Bangkok to Sydney ???
Belfast to Kathmandu overland, 2010/2011 - http://www.suckindiesel.com
Bangkok to Sydney ???
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Re: Hatz Enfield build
One head is still in Nanko's driveway, the other set of broken bolts is still in the flywheel/crank. We'll be approaching this with common sense. First secure some quality 12.9 bolts to see, if properly mounted, this doom scenario will occur again. No I'm not taking the drive from the flywheel, but I now do understand why flywheels are mounted on a tapered shaft and I'm quite unimpressed with the Hatz solution concerning the 1B40.
On the other hand it may very well be that I made a mistake mounting the flywheel and did not torque them op correctly. Having said that, there is not much area for friction between the flywheel and the crank, I'm worried that if you for whatever reason make a mistake with gear shifting (or the box fails on you) the flywheel comes off instead of the chain snapping.
The other problem is that the engine won't fire up from kickstarting. I have seen a nice video on youtube of a German guy kickstarting it, but maybe Sommer bypasses the autodecompression. There must be a twist to it to kickstart it as well, so it might be a matter of refining my technique. I can only use the kickstarter to make a ~120 degree kick, perhaps this is not introducing enough momentum. Maybe the kickstart should be more fierce, looking at the video the German guy uses no more than 120 degrees either: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G9ycasvJVMk
On the other hand it may very well be that I made a mistake mounting the flywheel and did not torque them op correctly. Having said that, there is not much area for friction between the flywheel and the crank, I'm worried that if you for whatever reason make a mistake with gear shifting (or the box fails on you) the flywheel comes off instead of the chain snapping.
The other problem is that the engine won't fire up from kickstarting. I have seen a nice video on youtube of a German guy kickstarting it, but maybe Sommer bypasses the autodecompression. There must be a twist to it to kickstart it as well, so it might be a matter of refining my technique. I can only use the kickstarter to make a ~120 degree kick, perhaps this is not introducing enough momentum. Maybe the kickstart should be more fierce, looking at the video the German guy uses no more than 120 degrees either: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G9ycasvJVMk
'92 Enfield + Hatz 1B40: street legal, weld up stainless exhaust, check engine rpm and change final drive sprocket.
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Re: Hatz Enfield build
I found myself a nice set (12) of bolts to try and try again. The first set of 6 is just to bolt it down and see if it goes. The second set is so I don't have scream and sulk if the first set is destroyed because not bolting the flywheel tight enough wasn't actually the problem.
'92 Enfield + Hatz 1B40: street legal, weld up stainless exhaust, check engine rpm and change final drive sprocket.
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Re: Hatz Enfield build
So Christmas is early this year. And I'm Santa Claus! My sock now contains a new Hatz alternator, fuel filter, air filter and the gasket for the valve cover. I will make some pics of the alternator tomorrow, it looks alright, hopefully it can be mated to the flywheel I have. If not I will have to buy a new one. But at least the engine will put out 200W for me to use for lighting and what not
'92 Enfield + Hatz 1B40: street legal, weld up stainless exhaust, check engine rpm and change final drive sprocket.
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Re: Hatz Enfield build
I know, I know, I've been neglecting you people. But I will make it up. No pictures of the stator/rotor, because I wasn't in time to nab the camera The good news is that I now have a power plant bolted to my diesel Without bothering with a regulator a specially selected member of the 12V/40W bulb light species was drafted for active duty. It actually survived for a few seconds, but when I touched the throttle its demise was inevitable.
Nanko milled the flywheel a bit to have a flat surface for the magnet ring (made in Spain) and put a piece of aluminium in the lathe to get a tool to center the stator around the axle before bolting it down. Throwing all caution to the wind, we disregarded Hatz orders and added a drop of loctite, before a fresh set of 12.9 bolts was torqued up to 42Nm to keep the flywheel firmly attached to the crank.
And indeed it runs fine now. I do not recommend kickstarting it wearing trainers, because 1:21 compression ratio can sting a little. To make up for the lack of eyecandy, I will add a nice view of the aluminium flanged ring that used to centre the primary case around the crank. Using nothing but the best bathroom silicone will keep it oiltight as well!
Phone cam alert! The pictures may not show it clearly, but the flange is on the inside of the ring, the bolts are merely in place to keep the inner primary it from falling off. A very nice solution indeed.
Nanko milled the flywheel a bit to have a flat surface for the magnet ring (made in Spain) and put a piece of aluminium in the lathe to get a tool to center the stator around the axle before bolting it down. Throwing all caution to the wind, we disregarded Hatz orders and added a drop of loctite, before a fresh set of 12.9 bolts was torqued up to 42Nm to keep the flywheel firmly attached to the crank.
And indeed it runs fine now. I do not recommend kickstarting it wearing trainers, because 1:21 compression ratio can sting a little. To make up for the lack of eyecandy, I will add a nice view of the aluminium flanged ring that used to centre the primary case around the crank. Using nothing but the best bathroom silicone will keep it oiltight as well!
Phone cam alert! The pictures may not show it clearly, but the flange is on the inside of the ring, the bolts are merely in place to keep the inner primary it from falling off. A very nice solution indeed.
'92 Enfield + Hatz 1B40: street legal, weld up stainless exhaust, check engine rpm and change final drive sprocket.
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Re: Hatz Enfield build
Some pastry with your coffee: 8 euro
A brand new clutch from India: 90 euro and change
Carefully milling a Citroen BX hood rod into a proper clutch rod and finding it's all for nothing: PRICELESS
So I had some trouble with my clutch. It either wouldn't disengage or have enough friction to kickstart. The original clutch rod was designed as a two piece but has been elongated with a bearing ball and is now a three piece. This was a candidate for improvement.
Frantically looking for material to work with, a hood rod caught our eye. It's made of hardened steel which is nice and it had a good foot of straight material to cannibalize. Milling it inch by inch and silver brazing a head to it did the job. The original rod is 6mm but the hole is 6.8/6.9mm. The new rod is one piece and 6.7mm, which will probably flex a lot less. Also the hood was milled to be perpendicular to the length of the rod for even lift and it now pierces the clutch front plate so it is centered all the time.
Still, no happy end. The clutch assembly wobbles like a tossed pizza and a short test spin revealed that it's still pretty hard to shift because the clutch doesn't easily disengage. The grinding noise from the gearbox probably means that it wasn't built for this kind of abuse
The front brake is still cause for concern, since although it brakes a bit better, I wouldn't voluntarily go out of city limits. More of the wirebrush I guess
Picture is of a greased up clutchrod.
A brand new clutch from India: 90 euro and change
Carefully milling a Citroen BX hood rod into a proper clutch rod and finding it's all for nothing: PRICELESS
So I had some trouble with my clutch. It either wouldn't disengage or have enough friction to kickstart. The original clutch rod was designed as a two piece but has been elongated with a bearing ball and is now a three piece. This was a candidate for improvement.
Frantically looking for material to work with, a hood rod caught our eye. It's made of hardened steel which is nice and it had a good foot of straight material to cannibalize. Milling it inch by inch and silver brazing a head to it did the job. The original rod is 6mm but the hole is 6.8/6.9mm. The new rod is one piece and 6.7mm, which will probably flex a lot less. Also the hood was milled to be perpendicular to the length of the rod for even lift and it now pierces the clutch front plate so it is centered all the time.
Still, no happy end. The clutch assembly wobbles like a tossed pizza and a short test spin revealed that it's still pretty hard to shift because the clutch doesn't easily disengage. The grinding noise from the gearbox probably means that it wasn't built for this kind of abuse
The front brake is still cause for concern, since although it brakes a bit better, I wouldn't voluntarily go out of city limits. More of the wirebrush I guess
Picture is of a greased up clutchrod.
'92 Enfield + Hatz 1B40: street legal, weld up stainless exhaust, check engine rpm and change final drive sprocket.
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- I luv the smell of Diesel...
- Posts: 976
- Joined: Sun Dec 30, 2007 7:45 pm
- Location: Leiden, Holland
- Contact:
Re: Hatz Enfield build
The flip side of the novice welder -- grinding off a tonne of welds
I think I will let the expert do the stainless one
I think I will let the expert do the stainless one
'92 Enfield + Hatz 1B40: street legal, weld up stainless exhaust, check engine rpm and change final drive sprocket.
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- Been here a while now..
- Posts: 28
- Joined: Mon Jun 14, 2010 2:25 pm
- Location: Adelaide, Australia
Re: Hatz Enfield build
Hey Sphere
Nice work there, but I couldn't bring myself to cut the down tube so much, plus the rego, plate issues.
I know its too late now but one question; why didn't you get the Hatz engine mounting brackets from Jochen Sommer? Does he not sell them separately?
I thought it would have been easier this way to install the 1B40
Nice work there, but I couldn't bring myself to cut the down tube so much, plus the rego, plate issues.
I know its too late now but one question; why didn't you get the Hatz engine mounting brackets from Jochen Sommer? Does he not sell them separately?
I thought it would have been easier this way to install the 1B40
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- I luv the smell of Diesel...
- Posts: 976
- Joined: Sun Dec 30, 2007 7:45 pm
- Location: Leiden, Holland
- Contact:
Re: Hatz Enfield build
Perhaps he does sell them? I don't know. I never asked to be honest. I did ask him about converting the petrol bike, I think it was something like 4-5k.
We'll see about registration, there's a few options, which I will be exploring from easy to painful
We'll see about registration, there's a few options, which I will be exploring from easy to painful
'92 Enfield + Hatz 1B40: street legal, weld up stainless exhaust, check engine rpm and change final drive sprocket.
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- I luv the smell of Diesel...
- Posts: 976
- Joined: Sun Dec 30, 2007 7:45 pm
- Location: Leiden, Holland
- Contact:
Re: Hatz Enfield build
So with the gearbox optimized for maximum kick (see viewtopic.php?f=22&t=1475) it was time to tend to wiring hell. I had ripped this bike apart in the summer of 2009 and I made sure not to take any notes. Luckily I know nothing about wiring a bike, adding to the challenge
Some pictures of when I started. The whole thing took me 20 hours to rewire. This includes all the little bits like taking the old wires apart and reuse the correct colour when applicable. The biggest joy was, when I was 80% ready and Nanko made a casual remark about blue (earth) and red (battery) convention in DC application. I'm sure it made sense to someone to revert these colours, but where the Enfield uses blue (battery) you should actually use red, and blue is the new black (don't forget to tell your wife!).
In the end it all worked fine except for a minor problem with the footbrakebrakelightswitch (scrabble!).
Some pictures of when I started. The whole thing took me 20 hours to rewire. This includes all the little bits like taking the old wires apart and reuse the correct colour when applicable. The biggest joy was, when I was 80% ready and Nanko made a casual remark about blue (earth) and red (battery) convention in DC application. I'm sure it made sense to someone to revert these colours, but where the Enfield uses blue (battery) you should actually use red, and blue is the new black (don't forget to tell your wife!).
In the end it all worked fine except for a minor problem with the footbrakebrakelightswitch (scrabble!).
'92 Enfield + Hatz 1B40: street legal, weld up stainless exhaust, check engine rpm and change final drive sprocket.
-
- I luv the smell of Diesel...
- Posts: 976
- Joined: Sun Dec 30, 2007 7:45 pm
- Location: Leiden, Holland
- Contact:
Re: Hatz Enfield build
After all this it was time for a testdrive. As you know, testdrives should be undertaken at night... well maybe it had to do with the time I spent on the wiring All seemed well, but somehow there was a nasty sound when shutting down the engine. It sounded like the alternator was rubbing against something. Strange?!
I wasn't really motivated to take a look after a 14 hr session, but Nanko changed my mind. The next morning the flywheel came off to see if it actually was the flywheel or perhaps the engine had broken down instead. Luckily what we found was the best reason to use loctite if you ever needed one. This could have come out a lot worse...
I wasn't really motivated to take a look after a 14 hr session, but Nanko changed my mind. The next morning the flywheel came off to see if it actually was the flywheel or perhaps the engine had broken down instead. Luckily what we found was the best reason to use loctite if you ever needed one. This could have come out a lot worse...
Last edited by Sphere on Tue Aug 03, 2010 9:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.
'92 Enfield + Hatz 1B40: street legal, weld up stainless exhaust, check engine rpm and change final drive sprocket.
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- I luv the smell of Diesel...
- Posts: 976
- Joined: Sun Dec 30, 2007 7:45 pm
- Location: Leiden, Holland
- Contact:
Re: Hatz Enfield build
So on Monday afternoon it was time to hold our heads high at the road authority inspection. To make the bike oil tight we didn't put in any oil. If it's not in, it can't leak We arrived at the site and a faint drizzle was coming down. Apparently a petrol cap requires some sort of rubber ring, because the diesel had gently spilled over the tank during the trip. I vaguely remember taking the ring out because it was brittle and never ordered a new cap
Some guys were offloading a Jawa and we waited in line. To my surprise the guys from road authority decided to tend to the Hatzfield first. The Jawa guys were talking amongst themselves and pointing. The eldest took a look at the bike. Then at me. Back at the bike. "Is that a diesel?!" Obviously the missing spark plug raised suspicion!
First some administrative matters like displacement and rated power were taken care off, and the vehicle number was checked. Then the bike was carefully scrutinized. He took his time checking the important matters. In the frenzy getting the bike ready I had forgotten to mount a leftside mirror (obligatory for bikes '75-'96) which I admitted upfront was a silly mistake and he was willing to let it slide. After he was done checking, I was asked to start the bike ("...but do it outside please") and ten men stood there watching me fail to start it. Or did they! Because much to everyone's amazement it started first kick, and I got a thumbs up. Job done, I was more than happy to pay for the administrative cost of changing the registration which should be in my mailbox within a week or so
The biggest hurdle has been taken, now I can finish the bike quietly and no more worrying about this or that. It would not have been possible without Nanko, and certainly not as much fun. Thanks a lot for that, Nanko.
Some guys were offloading a Jawa and we waited in line. To my surprise the guys from road authority decided to tend to the Hatzfield first. The Jawa guys were talking amongst themselves and pointing. The eldest took a look at the bike. Then at me. Back at the bike. "Is that a diesel?!" Obviously the missing spark plug raised suspicion!
First some administrative matters like displacement and rated power were taken care off, and the vehicle number was checked. Then the bike was carefully scrutinized. He took his time checking the important matters. In the frenzy getting the bike ready I had forgotten to mount a leftside mirror (obligatory for bikes '75-'96) which I admitted upfront was a silly mistake and he was willing to let it slide. After he was done checking, I was asked to start the bike ("...but do it outside please") and ten men stood there watching me fail to start it. Or did they! Because much to everyone's amazement it started first kick, and I got a thumbs up. Job done, I was more than happy to pay for the administrative cost of changing the registration which should be in my mailbox within a week or so
The biggest hurdle has been taken, now I can finish the bike quietly and no more worrying about this or that. It would not have been possible without Nanko, and certainly not as much fun. Thanks a lot for that, Nanko.
'92 Enfield + Hatz 1B40: street legal, weld up stainless exhaust, check engine rpm and change final drive sprocket.
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- I luv the smell of Diesel...
- Posts: 212
- Joined: Sat Aug 01, 2009 2:23 pm
- Location: northwest of Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Re: Hatz Enfield build
Yeehaw! Congrats, Sphere. Now that you're "done" you have to promise to keep writing about whatever because your posts are always so amusing. Oh yeah, and maybe you should keep a big bottle of Loctite in your toolkit; that Hatz must really shake.
Phil
Phil