okay, since i saw a lot of chang-jiang garbage, but read that the chinese diesel engine quality increased the last 10 years, i did not know what to expect from my 320 euro 418 yanmar clone.
I was planing of replacing the bearings but untill now it is still factory-original.
It has run up to 28.000km and that;s included 2 sommer holiday with the misses and a lot of luggage in mountains and steep hills.
From 10.000km, it gained some performance. Starting got easier and the engine doesn't knock so loud anymore. Actually it runs smoother.
However, accelerating doesn't go fluently. it feels sometimes like an old automatic car switching gears. but its alternating and not as worse as i just described it(i cannot find the proper expression for it)
So, more expereince reports please!
Greetings fron the Netherlands
china single cylinder riders gather here!
Moderators: Dan J, Diesel Dave, Crazymanneil, Stuart
Arnaud - thanks for posting this, it's interesting reading. I've got a 406cc Yanmar clone and I hope it lasts as long as yours (and with any luck on to the crazy mileages of Diesel Dave's greaves engine - 60,000 miles!).
Mine is very difficult to start (only done 600 miles) and I really hope that does improve. I think the timing is probably way too advanced - it's even run backwards for a few engine revolutions once when attempting to start from cold. I'm not comfortable touching the timing though so I am leaving that for the time being.
The one part of the engine I really think is poor is the governor arrangement. Mine doesn't idle smoothly and also will cut out if the bike is put on the side stand. It isn't a huge problem but I'm conscious of the fact that given the high tension the external governor springs are put under that they'll stretch after a while. If yours has a similar arrangement maybe it'd be worth getting some new springs for it and see if that helps your acceleration?
All the best... Dan
Mine is very difficult to start (only done 600 miles) and I really hope that does improve. I think the timing is probably way too advanced - it's even run backwards for a few engine revolutions once when attempting to start from cold. I'm not comfortable touching the timing though so I am leaving that for the time being.
The one part of the engine I really think is poor is the governor arrangement. Mine doesn't idle smoothly and also will cut out if the bike is put on the side stand. It isn't a huge problem but I'm conscious of the fact that given the high tension the external governor springs are put under that they'll stretch after a while. If yours has a similar arrangement maybe it'd be worth getting some new springs for it and see if that helps your acceleration?
All the best... Dan
1990 Honda NTV600 Revere
-
Diesel Dave
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Regulator woes
Sounds like your springs have lost their tension and the spring loaded plunger may be sticky too.
Dave
Dave
I don't have these trouble at all.
As for the starting, what is your routine?
first,
1- push it to the compression
2-flip over the deco-lever
3- push the kickstarter SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY untill you hear the clack of the deco-lever flipping back.
4- push it an additional (small)inch further.
5- let go the kickstart lever back, open the throttle and kick it down all the way.
As a matter of fact, the fuel pump needs to wear in, after that the timing will retatd a little and backwards running will seize.
So, no worrys! leave the timing. it will turn out OK!
Indeed in this stadium it knocks very-scary hard, it must be hard for the big-end.
Adding a litre of salad oil in the tank will reduce the knocking and improve smooth starting and running.
If you have starting trouble when it's freezing, spray deodorant into the air filter inlet, just before making the starting movement.
Also, pouring hot water over the head also helps.
The firt option is faster and gives a fresh start
The governer system gives no trouble at my bike.
To get maximum response, i attached the spring to the outer holes.
To set idling speed, i put a piece of rubber inside the throttle-cable stop, at the handlebar. For idling speed, which is set by screwing the nut at the outer cable, the throttle handle(whats the right name for this?) leans against the rubber. when you want to shut it down, you turn the handlebar grip back, pushing in the rubber.
Instead of rubber, i installed a small spring at first, but this turned out to damage the inner cable..
I hope this might help!
Don't let it idle too slow. just a steady tickover like a 350 bullet.
Since the oil pump has no regulation, oil pressure is very high when cold(so don't rev it high when cold) and very low at low RPM's when hot, so shift back in time, don't pull up in 4th gear at 50km/h with passenger/luggage or against wind, or better never at all.
Keep it in the average RPM modus.
The big end is pressure fed..
Think of you riding a bicycle with a lady on the back, pulling away from a traffic light.
When you do this in 3rd gear, your knees(the big-end) won't like it!!
I think this will help for the engine to last longer..
As for the starting, what is your routine?
first,
1- push it to the compression
2-flip over the deco-lever
3- push the kickstarter SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY untill you hear the clack of the deco-lever flipping back.
4- push it an additional (small)inch further.
5- let go the kickstart lever back, open the throttle and kick it down all the way.
As a matter of fact, the fuel pump needs to wear in, after that the timing will retatd a little and backwards running will seize.
So, no worrys! leave the timing. it will turn out OK!
Indeed in this stadium it knocks very-scary hard, it must be hard for the big-end.
Adding a litre of salad oil in the tank will reduce the knocking and improve smooth starting and running.
If you have starting trouble when it's freezing, spray deodorant into the air filter inlet, just before making the starting movement.
Also, pouring hot water over the head also helps.
The firt option is faster and gives a fresh start
The governer system gives no trouble at my bike.
To get maximum response, i attached the spring to the outer holes.
To set idling speed, i put a piece of rubber inside the throttle-cable stop, at the handlebar. For idling speed, which is set by screwing the nut at the outer cable, the throttle handle(whats the right name for this?) leans against the rubber. when you want to shut it down, you turn the handlebar grip back, pushing in the rubber.
Instead of rubber, i installed a small spring at first, but this turned out to damage the inner cable..
I hope this might help!
Don't let it idle too slow. just a steady tickover like a 350 bullet.
Since the oil pump has no regulation, oil pressure is very high when cold(so don't rev it high when cold) and very low at low RPM's when hot, so shift back in time, don't pull up in 4th gear at 50km/h with passenger/luggage or against wind, or better never at all.
Keep it in the average RPM modus.
The big end is pressure fed..
Think of you riding a bicycle with a lady on the back, pulling away from a traffic light.
When you do this in 3rd gear, your knees(the big-end) won't like it!!
I think this will help for the engine to last longer..
-
andrewaust
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- Joined: Mon Dec 04, 2006 12:24 pm
- Location: Australia
- Contact:
Hi Guy's
My yanclone has done just over 7K and has loosened up nicely, starts easy and yes "THANK GOODNESS" has quietened down a bit.
Keep the oil changes close together, and as stated check them springs for tension. Keep an eye on the exhaust, heaps of black smoke means over fueling and choking the engine.
Don't let the idle drop below 1200rpm as the oil delivery and cylinder temps are designed for a certain rpm range.
I"m hoping to get 100K out of the engine, by then the bike and probably myself will be destined for retirement
!!!!!.
Cheers
Andrew
My yanclone has done just over 7K and has loosened up nicely, starts easy and yes "THANK GOODNESS" has quietened down a bit.
Keep the oil changes close together, and as stated check them springs for tension. Keep an eye on the exhaust, heaps of black smoke means over fueling and choking the engine.
Don't let the idle drop below 1200rpm as the oil delivery and cylinder temps are designed for a certain rpm range.
I"m hoping to get 100K out of the engine, by then the bike and probably myself will be destined for retirement
!!!!!.Cheers
Andrew
After a recommendation from Diesel Dave, I fitted a 'Diesel Tiny-Tach' (http://www.tinytachuk.com/) - it's been very helpful to me in getting the governor set up. It's also backlit for night time!
1990 Honda NTV600 Revere
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Diesel Dave
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- Location: Essex, UK
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Tacho's
You can buy hand held tacho's from Ebay.
They come with a set of reflective stickers, slap on on a revolving part and aim the hand held laser on it for a few seconds.
Dave
They come with a set of reflective stickers, slap on on a revolving part and aim the hand held laser on it for a few seconds.
Dave
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andrewaust
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- Joined: Mon Dec 04, 2006 12:24 pm
- Location: Australia
- Contact:
Hi Dan
I have a tiny-tach to check rpm. Yes these engines are designed to run from 1200 rpm. Any lower and oil pressure and cylinder temps drop to far. Cylinder glazing and carbon build up in the cylinder/valves/injector can be the result. Remember guy's these are classed as high speed diesels with a specific design. If you grab the full manual on the engine you'll notice it also states idle at 1200rpm. Don't get confused with the cam PTO at 600rpm.
Cheers
Andrew:)
I have a tiny-tach to check rpm. Yes these engines are designed to run from 1200 rpm. Any lower and oil pressure and cylinder temps drop to far. Cylinder glazing and carbon build up in the cylinder/valves/injector can be the result. Remember guy's these are classed as high speed diesels with a specific design. If you grab the full manual on the engine you'll notice it also states idle at 1200rpm. Don't get confused with the cam PTO at 600rpm.
Cheers
Andrew:)
Arnaud - see post at http://www.dieselbike.net/phpBB-2.0.21/ ... .php?t=484
Andrew - you're totally correct, the spec for the L100 engine with 3600 output is 1200rpm at idle. I'd missed that - I'll get it turned up!
Andrew - you're totally correct, the spec for the L100 engine with 3600 output is 1200rpm at idle. I'd missed that - I'll get it turned up!
1990 Honda NTV600 Revere
i believe i mailed one to stuart..