Ok... Governor/"throttle" springs adjusted on my Yanmar clone engine. Bike is so much better to ride now - much more perky and better throttle response. Problem is that just the same as before every time the throttle is opened lots of thick black smoke appears. I've read all the warnings here and elsewhere about overheating and seizure and of course I want to avoid that - I just haven't got a clue how best to resolve this.
The max fuel governor stop (the one with the sprung loaded pin in it that the governor arm presses on) is set as per the manual instructions i.e. when the throttle is in the idle position it is just lightly touching the governor arm. Am sure the obvious response is to start winding it in - but if I do that I start affecting the idle, and even worse restricting how far the governor arm will move and therefore more likely to stretch the spring between throttle and governor arm? I don't want to do that either!
I'm still trying to get my head round all this but this part is definitely not making much sense. Any help most appreciated - I simply want to stop the bike smoking.
Dan
Yanmar max fuelling spring bolt adjuster
Moderators: Dan J, Diesel Dave, Crazymanneil, Stuart
Yanmar max fuelling spring bolt adjuster
1990 Honda NTV600 Revere
-
electronbee
- I'm pretty new here..
- Posts: 14
- Joined: Tue Aug 12, 2008 6:19 pm
Dan,
How long does it smoke? If it just smokes as you get off idle then I would nto worry about it. The only way you could really avoid this is with a more advanced diesel system. Like a common rail diesel with electronic injection control.
The three diesels that my parents farm has: a big Kubota tractor, a baby Kubota tractor, and a zero-turn; all smoke when we take off. It's more like a puff and then it's gone. And, the big Kubota actually has an ECU in it to control the engine. It smokes the least of the three but it will shoot out a black puff when we take it off of idle.
Now, if you are constantly exhausting black smoke then that is an issue. But, otherwise I would focus on settings for your road use as that is when the diesel will get the most hours and therefore the priority.
eb
How long does it smoke? If it just smokes as you get off idle then I would nto worry about it. The only way you could really avoid this is with a more advanced diesel system. Like a common rail diesel with electronic injection control.
The three diesels that my parents farm has: a big Kubota tractor, a baby Kubota tractor, and a zero-turn; all smoke when we take off. It's more like a puff and then it's gone. And, the big Kubota actually has an ECU in it to control the engine. It smokes the least of the three but it will shoot out a black puff when we take it off of idle.
Now, if you are constantly exhausting black smoke then that is an issue. But, otherwise I would focus on settings for your road use as that is when the diesel will get the most hours and therefore the priority.
eb
Eb - thanks. I'm talking constantly giving out black smoke (and lots of it) with "throttle" open but engine not up to speed (e.g. if I hit a hill). Currently trawling the 'net for further info - I'm thinking I may not have set the fuel limiter correctly. Really don't want to be playing with timing and things like that if I can help it.
One benefit is that I don't get cars driving right up the back of the bike - not after the first lungful anyway! There's a few people round here who will definitely need new "pollen" filters at their next service...
One benefit is that I don't get cars driving right up the back of the bike - not after the first lungful anyway! There's a few people round here who will definitely need new "pollen" filters at their next service...
1990 Honda NTV600 Revere
-
electronbee
- I'm pretty new here..
- Posts: 14
- Joined: Tue Aug 12, 2008 6:19 pm
Hrmmm...
The only thing I can think of would be to run one of those dual-ended cables for a dual-carb bike, like for an old Honda Twin. And have each one control the engine speed and fuel delivery. And try and adjust for the best. But, these engine were designed to be turned on and run at 3000RPM or 3600RPM. Not meant for the variables we are throwing at them.
But, I think that dual-ended cable is a possibility. Maybe even make a cam or an eccentric cam to adjust the fuel for higher speeds...
I know it is something that I have been contemplating while reading here and building up my current bike.
eb
The only thing I can think of would be to run one of those dual-ended cables for a dual-carb bike, like for an old Honda Twin. And have each one control the engine speed and fuel delivery. And try and adjust for the best. But, these engine were designed to be turned on and run at 3000RPM or 3600RPM. Not meant for the variables we are throwing at them.
But, I think that dual-ended cable is a possibility. Maybe even make a cam or an eccentric cam to adjust the fuel for higher speeds...
I know it is something that I have been contemplating while reading here and building up my current bike.
eb