I’ve been reminded by Mick that he gave me one of these manuals at an early rally and I’m pretty sure I passed it onto someone contemplating a build.
If that person is you, could I borrow it back for scanning please??
Thanks in advance
Daihatsu Charade English Manual
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Re: Daihatsu Charade English Manual
I have this manual (which I bought from New Zealand, of all places) but only the non-turbo version. It's a bit of a sh*t manual - mostly exploded drawings, and not much else - but if you want to borrow it to scan, fine, just let me know. How's your Daihatsu build going?
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Re: Daihatsu Charade English Manual
Build is going well Mark. All I really need is to figure the cooling system out. If you’ve anything you could pass on like a sketch of flow direction ect, that would be helpful. My German manual hasn’t a diagram showing that.
https://youtu.be/gRZtvT8KRU0
https://youtu.be/gRZtvT8KRU0
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- I luv the smell of Diesel...
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- Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2007 9:04 am
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Re: Daihatsu Charade English Manual
OK! I followed Johnny Flatau, who I think started all this silliness off.
Let's see - there's a small cast alloy 90 degree bend at the front of the steel coolant pipe which goes up the left side of the engine (amongst other places). I drilled a hole in it and soldered a piece of alloy tube into the front of it. This goes down to the bottom of the radiator.
At the rear of the engine, again on the left, is the thermostat housing. From memory, the top usually points its spout rearwards - but you can undo it on two bolts or studs and it will fit back on with the spout pointing forwards. This then goes across the top of the engine to the top of the radiator.
Hang on a minute, I'll go and look and confirm.
OK, I left that thing on top of the thermostat facing rearwards in the end, and made a copper 'U' to get the pipe back to the front to radiator top. I also fill it from a 'T' off this point, with a small header behind the seat. You probably know that cylinder heads crack between the seats and it is really, really, really important to make sure you have water right up to the top of the system, all the time.
Around the base of the spin-on oil filter is an oil cooler. Leave this plumbed in, to a point near the end of the steel coolant pipe which makes its way across the back of the engine. Another hole in this steel pipe which points straight out to the right is associated with the car heater (I seem to remember) - blank it off.
The rear-facing end of the steel coolant tube on the left of the engine is associated with the car heater - blank off.
The **rear-facing** hole lower down in the thermostat body is redundant - blank off - NOT the one in the bottom of the housing which enters vertically - you need this one.
I took all the pneumatic actuators off everything (except the turbo plenum pressure one on top of the injector pump, but you don't have this one i think) and I use a Leyland alternator (you need to blank off oil send and return to vac pump on back of Diahatsu alternator), classic mini radiator. Bike usually starts 2nd kick. I use a non-latching push button arrangement for glow plugs - press, count to five - as I kept leaving them on and shagging diode pack in the alternator!
I will have forgotten stuff, but I think this is more than you need?
Let's see - there's a small cast alloy 90 degree bend at the front of the steel coolant pipe which goes up the left side of the engine (amongst other places). I drilled a hole in it and soldered a piece of alloy tube into the front of it. This goes down to the bottom of the radiator.
At the rear of the engine, again on the left, is the thermostat housing. From memory, the top usually points its spout rearwards - but you can undo it on two bolts or studs and it will fit back on with the spout pointing forwards. This then goes across the top of the engine to the top of the radiator.
Hang on a minute, I'll go and look and confirm.
OK, I left that thing on top of the thermostat facing rearwards in the end, and made a copper 'U' to get the pipe back to the front to radiator top. I also fill it from a 'T' off this point, with a small header behind the seat. You probably know that cylinder heads crack between the seats and it is really, really, really important to make sure you have water right up to the top of the system, all the time.
Around the base of the spin-on oil filter is an oil cooler. Leave this plumbed in, to a point near the end of the steel coolant pipe which makes its way across the back of the engine. Another hole in this steel pipe which points straight out to the right is associated with the car heater (I seem to remember) - blank it off.
The rear-facing end of the steel coolant tube on the left of the engine is associated with the car heater - blank off.
The **rear-facing** hole lower down in the thermostat body is redundant - blank off - NOT the one in the bottom of the housing which enters vertically - you need this one.
I took all the pneumatic actuators off everything (except the turbo plenum pressure one on top of the injector pump, but you don't have this one i think) and I use a Leyland alternator (you need to blank off oil send and return to vac pump on back of Diahatsu alternator), classic mini radiator. Bike usually starts 2nd kick. I use a non-latching push button arrangement for glow plugs - press, count to five - as I kept leaving them on and shagging diode pack in the alternator!
I will have forgotten stuff, but I think this is more than you need?
- Stuart
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Re: Daihatsu Charade English Manual
Many thanks for that Mark. I will copy that lot off and make drawing I think. I was planning to go to the breakers yard to get some assorted pipes but it’s closed due to Covid of course.
I am putting the Alternator oil feed back into the engine on the right side.
There was/is a head for sale on eBay. I will send you the link if it’s still active.
I am putting the Alternator oil feed back into the engine on the right side.
There was/is a head for sale on eBay. I will send you the link if it’s still active.