Using a D250S Dual to pump up the starter battery?

[BertTrack]

Assuming I'm getting the c.v.t to operate the way i want it too:

I'm playing with idea's about how to charge the http://shop.odysseybattery.com/p/pc680mj-a?pp=12 original battery the way it's supposed to be charged.

From the Odyssey site "To recharge your Odyssey PC680 correctly you will need a charger with a range of 14.1v to 14.7v."

I experienced that the dynamo on the Track is capable of a decent output, but in combination with the voltage regulator, doesn't quiet manage to get high enough volts to fully load the battery. Especially when i'm using the c.v.t. cooling fan and possible other electric users.

The idea i have now is to buy a http://ctek.com/int/en/chargers/D250S%20DUAL and use that between the voltage regulator and the pc680 because the D250S will boost the voltage to charge to 14.4. Max load amps though is 20 amps. I'd only be using the biggest battery as a starter powersource.

Adding to this package i'd put in a 2.5Ah battery to run the glowplugs and dash etc. I'd connect this directly to the voltage regulator. This would be a Lithium Ion battery.

Keeping in mind that it won't need a long glow when the engine is hot i should be able to make it through a multiple start/stop situation.

[coachgeo]

Could go with a non AGM but still high CCA that only needs typical alternator output to charge properly? does the Track battery sit sideways that needs AGM so not to spill acid etc?

Or another thought...... do you drive enough to cause undercharge issues? As in if bike is at home often enough plug her to a more optimal charger when there. Put an external plug in charge port? Granted doing it right is sure SWEEEEEEEET if ya got the funds to do it.

[BertTrack]

Well the problem is that it's never fully charged from riding. Add to that the need to sometimes start/stop the engine multiple times in a short time period.
And well, i've been too close to not being able to start for comfort.

I'd better go the right way.

The Odyssee is a AGM battery and sits on it's side. There just isn't much room under the saddle. Though possibly a big Li-ion battery would fit nicely if i take out the battery tray.

Problem with that is that it will cost me 400 euro's and more. And still not give me higher voltage to start more securely. The ctek DS with small li-ion would be less euro's.

[coachgeo]

see your points.. So you got to find some way to up the output of your Alt. Interesting way to do it. Looks promising.

[tappy]

I'm sure Dieseltech(?) posted in one of the threads about how to modify standard rectifiers to give slightly higher output.
And even if you don't want to modify one they can't be that difficult to build.

[alexanderfoti]

A mosfet regulator will give you slightly higher efficiency therefore usable power. The reason your voltage is low, is because your drawing more than your making. Simple. Charge is a function of voltage, so using a voltage regulator won't help.

[BertTrack]

I've verified this with the spanish manufacturer of my rectifier/regulator. It's set for 14 volts cold. So less when it's hot outside. (of under the saddle)

It has no voltage detection wire. Just an on/off wire, a rpm signal wire, an indication light wire (when it's on) That's all the flavours i have.

I know another Track owner get's 14.8 with his rectifier/regulator same one i had the first 100km. But send me away on a new motorbike without an earthing cable attached etc...

Anyway so this other track get's plenty of power from his alternator (same as mine) to pump out 14.8 over 2000rpm. And he has more light switched on standard etc.

I have gotten a smart car alternator now and the rest of the stuff i'd need. But knowing now that the alternator should be good in power i may explore other rectifier/regulators.