Yam XJ600 Diesel bike conversion

[alexanderfoti]

After removing some fencing and some seriously damp bike moving, I have the bikes in the garden and a wooden platform built, ready for the transformation!

This will be a move of the running gear from the superdream to the xj initially, so a 400cc Yanmar clone, one fuel tank this time and simple is the name of the game. It should be reliable and work well. When I have the funds, I will switch to a kubota engine.


It was a tight fit!

[alexanderfoti]

I will keep this post updated as I go along, but dont expect much to happen for a month or so, its a busy month ahead for me

[coachgeo]

how much heavier will this bike be you think?

[alexanderfoti]

Hmm, well the dry weight of the superdream is 166kg, plus say 10kg witih all the extra fuel tanks and crap I added into it.

The dry weight of the xJ600 is 188KG, so overall not a huge difference.

More of the XJ600's weight is going to be its engine, which I will be removing so I dont think it will be too different.

[alexanderfoti]

Although this page says the superdreams dry weight is 184kg...

http://www.syb-magazine.com/1980hondacb ... R0eHKVA3Dc

Im thinking it will be close

[alexanderfoti]

Its bloody cold out right now, but I braved the stupid snow as im determined to get the bike ready for the big knock:



engine+ gearbox out, ready for the remainder of the old chasis to get dumped and the new bike to come apart!

[alexanderfoti]

\Just a quick update on the diesel bike buid.

Theres a post that has a better layout on http://fotifixes.com/2013/03/12/xj-600- ... ld-update/


The engine and gearbox is out of the old bike:




The fairing and lights/engine elctrical have been removed from the xj600:





I ran out of light, but the next stuff is the exhaust and then engine out.

The pulleys for the belt drive have arrived, I will pop round to the metal place to see how much to turn it down, depending on whether Tim gets back to me

[alexanderfoti]

Just a little update on the diesel bike build.I managed to get the carbs, air box, and engine + elecrics out today.It was getting pretty dark by the time I finished, however, I managed to get the engine into the frame for a test fit and to see what sort of space I have.Pictures below:

Now, I think I wont be able to get away with this build without modfying the frame.
However, the gearbox should fit with the engine in its current location. Of course the flywheel wont fit with the engine in its current location as its goes where the frame down tube is.

[alexanderfoti]

Another update (im working fast!)

Right, a bit more work on the old gearbox mounts and its free. I have now had the chance to test fit the lot (gearbox etc).

Its very close, but I will need more length in the frame.

I can do 3 things, 1) stretch the frame to acomodate the length 2) add extensions to the front of the frame to clear the startermotor/flywheel 3) create a new lower basket/subframe to support the engine.

I havent decided which I will do, It depends on what tools are available and what can be obtained. I also test fitted the pulley, it should be doable but the gearbox will need to move closer to the front of the bike so that it clears the swing arm bearings. Hmmm. Have a look below:

[sbrumby]

I would like to just like to add a few points that you may find of interest. My second build was with a XJ750, which was a shaft drive that i converted to chain drive.Your frame is exactly the same frame But Yamaha have used it as a chain drive. What i mean by that is if you measure the swinging arm width you will find it is 11" with no central spindle. Most bikes are 9" with a central spindle. On my conversion that had a Ruggerini 750 twin I had to replace and reroute the front downtubes to miss the flywheel. Also had to cut and replate the tank to get the cylinder under the tank. I figure your engine is say 10hp so I dont know why you have gone for a 3 belt pulley, as i have just converted my 6 hp superdream to belt with a single belt, and it has been successful. I used a Gates quad power XPZ which should take 20hp. Also your 3belt pulley is cast iron so will machine ok but might be difficult to fix to the steel clutch basket.
Hope this helps.

[alexanderfoti]

Many thanks.

The main reason for using a 3 belt pulley is that one belt will be used to run a supercharger. The other 2 are for redundancy.

What is the significance of the swing arm size?

I would be interested to see how you have routed the downtubes? Any pictures? I would like to keep the frame modifications to a minimum

[alexanderfoti]

I am planning to bolt the clutch basket to the pulley that should be ok?

The main reason I chose spa was that it was available in the correct sizes. I have a 26mm shaft which is a weird size in tapelock bushes

[sbrumby]

Hi , SPA & XPZ use the same pulley size. The yam 750 you will find on the main website in private diesel conversions I-R second from the bottom. No real significance of the swinging arm size, I was just pointing out the difference of you frame to most other frames. The regular frames with a bolt through the swing arm dont need to be very strong as the bolt holds it all together, but on a shaft drive it is not possible to have a bolt as there is a shaft in the way and the frame at that point has to be much stronger. It may be that they have used a bolt system you can check this buy just flicking off the end cap, if you see an allen head and a locknut there is no central bolt.

[alexanderfoti]

Ah right I see perfect!

The SPZ belts are shallower and narrower, so the pulley width should be smaller with SPZ stuff.

Im going by what TIm is saying, as he is helping with the turning and stuff that I cant.

Ah right, I See what you mean, good to know a bit of info about the bike though Im riding around on a fazer at the moment and that is a joy to ride!

[alexanderfoti]

I spotted it.

Looks really nice. How did you make the primary cover/what out of?

[sbrumby]

I wish i could say i had made the primary cover, someone at a packageing machinery co made it for me out of stainless low friction dimpled steel used on the forming shoulders of bagging machines. The company that i worked at on a regular basis would make you anything providing the bosses were not around. One time they stove enamelled all the cases for a ruggerini engine which they said would take a few days, 1hour later they said it was ready. "You said it would take a few days" Yes but all the Bosses went into a meeting.

[alexanderfoti]

I wish i could say i had made the primary cover, someone at a packageing machinery co made it for me out of stainless low friction dimpled steel used on the forming shoulders of bagging machines. The company that i worked at on a regular basis would make you anything providing the bosses were not around. One time they stove enamelled all the cases for a ruggerini engine which they said would take a few days, 1hour later they said it was ready. "You said it would take a few days" Yes but all the Bosses went into a meeting.

ha ha ! great! Its know what you know its who you know! Excellent.

[alexanderfoti]

ignore

[alexanderfoti]

Lots of hard work going on recently. This is the slow bit, welding and metal working bit of the build.

The frame has been extended on the flywheel side of things, as much as the engine needs at least. The new downtube has been fitted, the plate the engine will sit has also been welded into place.

Its taken about 6 hours to get the frame modded to this state and I still have to:

Swap the brake pivot to the left hand side (As the gear lever will be on the right)Fabricate and make up a gearbox mount (wont happen until the pulley machining is completed, which is being done on Friday)All wiringSlotted holes for the engine to bolt throught (to allow for pulley tension etc)and lots of other things I have forgotten about no doubt.

Some pictures (no comments on my welds! First time im geting used to a mig welder ) :

[coachgeo]

little worried about strength of the weld on your new downtube. The portion where its welded to the frame. Sorry for mentioning welds but....... your momma wants you in all one piece......... and same thoughts for the mom of the person who may be behind you when something flies off at them

[alexanderfoti]

Sorry, I didnt elaborate on why I didnt want comments on the welds.

I havent finished the welding yet

The downplate is maybe 50% welded. The downtube was tack welded in place, then a small bead ran down on side only to keep it all aligned.

Or do you mean the bottom bit? Either way, they arent completed finished.

I also buggered up the alignment of my half and half cut, so I will be making a plate to go across the cut on the bottom and then welding that to the underside of the frame to give it extra strength.

[coachgeo]

Sorry, I didnt elaborate on why I didnt want comments on the welds.

I haven't finished the welding yet ....

now that makes a ton of since

[alexanderfoti]

Sorry, I didnt elaborate on why I didnt want comments on the welds.

I haven't finished the welding yet ....

now that makes a ton of since

Got distracted doing the drop links on my car, no more knocking!

[old clunker]

Good luck with the welding and the alignment! Especially in this cold weather!

[alexanderfoti]

Good luck with the welding and the alignment! Especially in this cold weather!

Fingers crossed, it is bloody cold!

[sbes]

Excellent thead Alex.
Great pictures, wonderful incentive for us beginners.

Steve

[sbrumby]

Alex I might have been telling you a load of rubbish about your swinging arm, because the picture of your swinging arm doesn`t seem to be in the center of where it attaches to the frame, but seems to be well forward so there may be a center bolt.

[alexanderfoti]

Excellent thead Alex.
Great pictures, wonderful incentive for us beginners.

Steve

Many thanks, im glad its providing motivation!

[alexanderfoti]

Alex I might have been telling you a load of rubbish about your swinging arm, because the picture of your swinging arm doesn`t seem to be in the center of where it attaches to the frame, but seems to be well forward so there may be a center bolt.

I havent popped the cover off yet. Its position is really annoying, as its where my gearbox is going!

[alexanderfoti]

A lovely day out was had at Tim's in Somerset on Friday. He, very kindly, taught me how to use a lathe and helped me sort out the pulleys and the rear sprocket. It was thoroughly entertaining! Thanks again Tim!

The pulley going into the lathe:





The initial layer removed from the inside of the pulley, mainly for weight savings:







Swapped around now, and removing the main part of the pulley, where the clutch basket will sit:



After a lot more turning:





Shiny shiny!:







Drilled the holes and wacked the back plate of the clutch basket inside:





And with the basket in place:





All I need is the correct size bolts and all will be done for that!

Now time for the sprocket, it needed to fit over a 12cm wide sprocket hub:





After lots of turning (The rim and the center boss) and we drill the holes and mount it to the hub center:









Lovely Jublies!



All sorted, and today I did some test fitting of the engine and the gearbox with the pulley on it, Turns out, the engine needs to go forward another 2 inches! Argh, teaches me to weld and not measure things, after some cutting and re-welding I had extended the engine mount a further 2 inches:





I was worried about clearance with the front wheel (it looks closer than it is), so I compressed the front forks using wratchet straps and checked throughout the steering movement! All ok!

A view from the other side with the pulley on top of the crank, this is as far forward as I can get the engine:





Some close ups of the individual welds, I ran out out of gas halfway through and had to switch to flux cored wire (thats a lot more work! Grr):





I ended up re-doing a lot of these as I didnt have the power up high enough and the weld was just sitting on top of the frame



My new toy





Slowly getting there.