I've been wondering how to give my engine (rug rd211 twin) a bit more power, looking at the workshop manual I noticed something about the injector settings, distance in the head (from piston), and injector pump settings being shimmed up or down.
This would be for ignition timing right? How can we use this to our advantage?
http://www.dieselbiker.co.uk/non-diesel ... r-pump.jpg
Engine mods / pump & injector timing etc
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Re: Engine mods / pump & injector timing etc
Interesting.
What they do is they move the fuel pump closer to or away from the cam moving it. So you change the moment of fuel pressure build up, forwards and backwards.
Since you can't change it on the fly you have to set it right. Because putting it too early can cause serious damage when running in hot temperatures. And putting it too late will cause loss of power.
If the r.p.m you're running the engine with mostly is close to the original design speed then I'd have to say leave it as is.
What they do is they move the fuel pump closer to or away from the cam moving it. So you change the moment of fuel pressure build up, forwards and backwards.
Since you can't change it on the fly you have to set it right. Because putting it too early can cause serious damage when running in hot temperatures. And putting it too late will cause loss of power.
If the r.p.m you're running the engine with mostly is close to the original design speed then I'd have to say leave it as is.
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Re: Engine mods / pump & injector timing etc
An ex employee of an engine development company on the South coast once advised me to turn up the fuelling screw on the RE Hatz 350. A bit more black smoke but it did improve things noticeably.
This might be an easier option?
This might be an easier option?
Stuart. M1030M1, Honda NC700S, Grom!, Toyota Corolla 1.4 Turbo Diesel. Favouring MPG over MPH.
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Re: Engine mods / pump & injector timing etc
Like a zit waiting to explode.BertTrack wrote:Interesting.
What they do is they move the fuel pump closer to or away from the cam moving it. So you change the moment of fuel pressure build up, forwards and backwards.
It's 150rpm over normal running at the moment.BertTrack wrote:Since you can't change it on the fly you have to set it right. Because putting it too early can cause serious damage when running in hot temperatures. And putting it too late will cause loss of power.
If the r.p.m you're running the engine with mostly is close to the original design speed then I'd have to say leave it as is.
I'm just thinking about getting a little more out of her without fitting a turbo. Or before fitting a turbo,
With a turbo she could run 600 or maybe 750 over normal revs.
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Re: Engine mods / pump & injector timing etc
Why go through the hassle of tuning it twice, I would urge you to get right down to business and fit the turbo
'92 Enfield + Hatz 1B40: street legal, weld up stainless exhaust, check engine rpm and change final drive sprocket.
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Re: Engine mods / pump & injector timing etc
I've been meaning to do this for a while now, but as usual there's more pressing things to do to the bike.Stuart wrote:An ex employee of an engine development company on the South coast once advised me to turn up the fuelling screw on the RE Hatz 350. A bit more black smoke but it did improve things noticeably.
This might be an easier option?
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Re: Engine mods / pump & injector timing etc
Yea your probably right.Sphere wrote:Why go through the hassle of tuning it twice, I would urge you to get right down to business and fit the turbo
I have another one of these engines for my next bike, and I was thinking of doing the biz to it before it goes in to the frame. Wasting my time even thinking about it probably.