I'm new to the little single cyl diesels. I'm getting fairly close to completion on my project, and trying to fire the engine (for the first time) Chinese Yanmar clone. The "book?" that came with it ( more of a pamphlet really) says basically "bleed the air out by loosening the fuel line coming out of the injector pump" and that it MAY be neccesary to let the air out. It was test fired at the factory (so they say) and then the tank was drained for shipment. I don't have the wiring done yet, so it's pull only at this time.
Tried maybe 15-20 pulls last night to no avail. Any hot tips on bleeding a system? Exactly, step by step, how's it done? Thanks...
Bleeding Air Out?
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- LocomotiveBreath
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Bleeding air from system
First I have to ask, what is the throttle setting when trying your last 15-20 times you have tried? Sounds like you’re trying to bleed the system with the throttle off (governor set at lowest setting).
If I were doing it, keep compression release on, set throttle at wide open throttle, and just crack (slightly loosen) injection line @ injector. Pull starter rope or let the starter motor engine over until you get fuel, then tighten injector line nut. She should be ready to fire after these procedures.
Please note: I used the term throttle, but in actuality we are dealing with the governor control. At the lowest setting it will allow no fuel (actual stop mode).
Good luck,
Dave
If I were doing it, keep compression release on, set throttle at wide open throttle, and just crack (slightly loosen) injection line @ injector. Pull starter rope or let the starter motor engine over until you get fuel, then tighten injector line nut. She should be ready to fire after these procedures.
Please note: I used the term throttle, but in actuality we are dealing with the governor control. At the lowest setting it will allow no fuel (actual stop mode).
Good luck,
Dave
“Face piles and piles of trials with smiles. It riles them to believe that you perceive the web they weave, and keep on thinking free. "Moody Blues"
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Thanks... but I got it figgered out later in the day. Only took about 3-4 good pulls and it popped a couple times... A few more and it took right off.
Not as loud as I expected either (with a straight pipe)
Got a few more little details to take care of, and it'll be time for it's virgin run down the road.....
Not as loud as I expected either (with a straight pipe)
Got a few more little details to take care of, and it'll be time for it's virgin run down the road.....
- andrewaust
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Yeah who can forget there first diesel bike start up and test run - what a memory.
Then again - the fact that I got the beast running around 10ish at night while the next door neighbors where having a party seemed like a good idea until I came back to find it had been gate crashed and the law in attendance I just very gingerly rolled on up the drive and put the yet to be registered bike away OOPS.
Always the way when you don't want to bring any attention to oneself
One word on the clone Yanmar - be sure to change the oil around the 1000 K mark, or a little earlier, as this will help with the running in process. The engine doesn't have a real good oil filtering system, so small particles can circulate in the oil.
There a great little engine all the same.
Cheers - be sure to post some piccies
Andrew
Then again - the fact that I got the beast running around 10ish at night while the next door neighbors where having a party seemed like a good idea until I came back to find it had been gate crashed and the law in attendance I just very gingerly rolled on up the drive and put the yet to be registered bike away OOPS.
Always the way when you don't want to bring any attention to oneself
One word on the clone Yanmar - be sure to change the oil around the 1000 K mark, or a little earlier, as this will help with the running in process. The engine doesn't have a real good oil filtering system, so small particles can circulate in the oil.
There a great little engine all the same.
Cheers - be sure to post some piccies
Andrew
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In my view there should be a first oil change at a very low mileage, 80 to 100 miles. Reason is that by then all the metal particles left by the manufacturing process will have been gathered up by the oil and in circulation. Think of it as a flushing operation. then run it in properly on new oil and proceed as recommended. Might seem a waste, but is only once in the life of an engine.
- balboa_71
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first oil change
I'm with oldbmw on the first oil change being done early in the game to rid the engine of metal chips/filings. Also, stay away from synthetic oils until you have the engine good and broken in (maybe a year of riding). I myself, use Coastal 15w-40 diesel oil and buy it by the gallon. Coastal oil is budget brand oil sold at Autozone in the states, but meets all the Cummins and Detroit Diesel specs. It's at least $1 or 2 less than Chevron or Rotella gallon sized containers. Here in the US, it's hard to buy bad oil, but you have to get oils with the CC, CD spec. for diesel valve train. For you gasser motorcycle riders, this oil works well with wet clutched engines.
Cris
Cris
1980 GS850 converted to 10hp diesel clone power.
2006 Jetta TDI for road work.
2007 Bonneville
2006 Jetta TDI for road work.
2007 Bonneville
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Been real busy the last couple weeks. Prepping the house for my son's graduation party. But I did manage to get the battery/starter hooked up so I can light it up anytime I want. Had about 10 guys in the shop saturday (during the party) looking it over. I HOPE to be able to take it on it's virgin run in a couple days. All I have to do is finish the throttle assembly, and rig up a pedal stop for the rear brake. No wiring on it yet, but that'll come later.
As far as video clips? Well, I ain't THAT talented.. I'll try to get a couple still shots of it up in the next couple days..
As far as video clips? Well, I ain't THAT talented.. I'll try to get a couple still shots of it up in the next couple days..