Diesel for Kawasaki EL 250

[bf109v7]

In 8 days, my belt gear comes, and I will start converting. The diesel engine is already out of the boat and a motorcycle engine in it and almost connected.
What I'm thinking now: The diesel motorcycle will be a solo bike, and there is a side stand. But my engine has no electrical stop. And with the belt drive I have no gear idle control and no clutch switch.
Since I am forgetful, and would drive away with stand down, when there is no warning, do I have to do something.
Has anyone a better idea than I had so far?
Alex

[coachgeo]

Well you could do a warning light. A switch that is activated when stand is up thus closing electrical circuit to warning light. When stand is down light (connected to key switch for power) will light up when you turn the key.You could get more complicated. Since you don't have an engine stop...... you could do a Rider Stop. For example your warning light could be a laser that burns you till you put up the stand. Or it sends a jolt of electricity thru your hand the second you touch the throttle? maybe a wire at the front of the seat that will instead send that jolt into your..... sack of jewls?

IMHO a Rider Stop device should also go off if your not wearing proper riding gear!!!!

[Tetronator]

Think mechanical, run a cable from the sidestand to the stop lever of the engine.

Sidestand down -> engine off
Sidestand up -> engine can run

Seems to me that this is the simplest solution here if you want to keep your sidestand.

[UAofE]

Seems to me that this is the simplest solution here if you want to keep your sidestand.

Or they could just remember to put the sidestand up...

[bf109v7]

[quote="coachgeo"
IMHO a Rider Stop device should also go off if your not wearing proper riding gear!!!![/quote]
Normal riding gear in the Philippines are flip-flops , short pants, t-shirt and a stroh hat against the sun. Is this considerd proper?
Alex

[bf109v7]

It took a lot longer than 8 Days, but day before yesterday my belt drive finalaly came. And I started. I will use a spare frame for fitting. The jack shaft is in and the engine is hanging in the correct position. I had to cut of something of the trottel arangment to get the 208 mm center to center. I cant get a longer belt here. Now I have to make a lower frame to mount the engine.
Alex

[bf109v7]

Subframe is made.
Alex

[bf109v7]

This is the motorcycle I am going to convert. My wife says that I am totaly insame, to destroy a nice Motorcycle, whitch runs quite, fast, without vibrations for something slow, smoking, agly and ratteling.
Alex

[bf109v7]

But I did not listen. Maybe I am insane.

[bf109v7]

The Diesel is in. But there are still some connections to make, a batterie box and an exaust.
Alex

[bf109v7]

Only a protector for my food not get hurt on thec pulley is left to do. I drove 20 Km already runs fine. Top speed is 100 Km/h so far. But nobody goes this fast, because the speed limit is 60 on the high way, only the expessway is 100. I put the engine stop on the side stand with a cable, engine stops when it goes down. Ane I shold paint the engine cover in the same red as the bike.
Alex

[Tetronator]

Good Job Alex! The bike looks really nice.

I see you went with my suggestion on the kickstand cable engine cut, does it work well?

[bf109v7]

yes it works fine. The problem is that you cant turn the throttel when the sidestand is down, and with this idiot here I am afraid somebody will use force and brake the cable.
Alex

[UAofE]

But now you can only run the engine when you are on it.

[coachgeo]

yes it works fine. The problem is that you cant turn the throttel when the sidestand is down, and with this idiot here I am afraid somebody will use force and brake the cable.
Alex

I like this idea. How did you do that?

[bf109v7]

But now you can only run the engine when you are on it.

And thos is good so. Because there is an automatic clutch, the bike would run away if somebody twist the trottel.
On thr Picture of the side stand you can see a small pice I welded to it. And a fine wire going upwards. The Idle stop hangs on a spring, and this wire pulls the spring down.
Alex

[Tetronator]

yes it works fine. The problem is that you cant turn the throttel when the sidestand is down, and with this idiot here I am afraid somebody will use force and brake the cable.
Alex

Use a really thick strong cable then.

I've broken both my clutch and throttle cable like that.

[coachgeo]

oh...... kickstand down pulls engine stop; drat; thought you had found a way for kickstand down to lock the accelerator cable so it can't be reved.

[bf109v7]

There is no seperate engine stop. There is only 1 engine speed control lever. For idle it is stoped by a spring, an when I put the sidestand down the cable pulls this lever further down comppessing this spring.
I added a picture of the jack shaft. And one of a plate. That plate keeps the hot air from my leg, leg heating is not nesserary here.
Alex

[bf109v7]

I drove little more than 200 km now. For my feeling the clutch should engage at lower RPM. I heard in a German forum fran somebody that drilling holes in the roller weights and filling them with led helps.
Does anyone have a better idea?
Alex

[UAofE]

Drill and tap to use steel setscrews as weight. Balance is important. No more than +1 gram from the lightest puck.
Changing the engage RPM also changes when the driven clutch "shifts" its ratio. Meaning, more weight will make the engine want to stay at lower revvs, can cause lugging at higher speeds, and reduced ability to "downshift" at heavy load.

Its a balance act. I traded the clutch engaging at 1900rpm and lugging the engine to limit average speed at 45 to 2000rpm engage - 55mph lug speed. I tried 2100rpm engage but it pushed the driven clutch's shift speed above the engine's maximum RPM.

[bf109v7]

I think your clutch is different, in mine you can not screw something to the rollers.
Alex

[coachgeo]

Picture23.jpg

I think your clutch is different, in mine you can not screw something to the rollers.
Alex

I do believe that different weight rollers and/or springs are available for adjusting the clutch engagement.

[bf109v7]

I checkt the net, but I did not find any. But iven if there are, how would I get them to the Philippines? To send parts by mail does not work, they get stuck in costoms.
Alex

[coachgeo]

Picture23.jpg

I think your clutch is different, in mine you can not screw something to the rollers.
Alex

crazy idea. See if a machine shop you can afford can take tube of same diameter as your rollers and make removable caps for them along with way to attach springs in your pic. Then fill these rollers each with washers and if needed plastic washers as spacers. Put spacers and washers in same order in each to ensure balance. Say all weighted washers in middle with plastic on outer... or visa versa with weight on each outside edge. You can use a mail scale or ?? to ensure your weighted washers are of the near about same weight so you can get each roller to weigh the same. Thus you end up with adjustable roller weights.

Prior to that play with roller springs... Springs with less tension in your set up will allow the rollers to move sooner by the looks of it. Maybe a small spacer on each spring to lesson their tension?

[bf109v7]

I have a leth machine, but what you recoment would make the weights lighter. I need then havier. And they must be 1 pice, because they transmit side loads. I was first thinking to make them from havier material, but there is nothing afordable much havier than Steeel. Lead woud not be strong enough.
Alex

[gearhead1951]

drill through the length of the rollers and pour the holes full of lead !

[bf109v7]

This is what I will do!
Alex

[UAofE]

Thats what I was suggesting you do with drill and tap for setscrews.

[coachgeo]

I have a leth machine, but what you recoment would make the weights lighter. I need then havier. And they must be 1 pice, because they transmit side loads. I was first thinking to make them from havier material, but there is nothing afordable much havier than Steeel. Lead woud not be strong enough.
Alex

from what it sounds this idea would work fine. Make washers/round weighted slugs out of lead. You would definitely not end up lighter and they would be adjustable. With lathe you might could hollow out on both ends of roller and thread it for a LARGE set screw or flat head Allen Head bolt to act as cap. Put machined/melted round led slugs in them? For this idea though; just in case I'd still go with tube as described earlier before hollowing out your OEM rollers.