Remove clutch housing

[Sphere]

I need to remove the motor axle sprocket and the clutch housing so I can free the primary case and strip the motor from the frame. Can both the sprocket and the clutch housing be removed using a generic puller? I have pretty much stripped the primary box internals, but I'm a 1" wrench short so I cannot remove the magnet yet. That will have to wait until I can visit a shop that sells non-metric stuff.

[Diesel Dave]

If this is an Enfield we are talking about....

There are specific factory tools for pulling/holding the clutch and another puller for the engine gear.

In the engine sprocket front ot depends if you have the crank machined to take the std Enfield engine sprocket or the shaft has been left alone and a 1" bored keyway sprocket used. Usually these are loose enough to fall off.

The clutch is usually a very tight fit on the splines and I wouldn't attempt to remove it without the proper puller.


Dave

[Sphere]

Sorry, yes we're talking about an Enfield. I don't know about the engine sprocket, since the magnet is in the way still. Someone tipped me about using an old grinder disc make 3 holes for screwing it to the clutch (based on the plate that keeps the clutch together) and using M10 nut and bolt as leverage. Something similar can be used for the sprocket if it is required.

I'll report how it turns out.

[Diesel Dave]

That might work, but if it's tight though it will snap the grinder disk.

I expect drilling the holes may blunt a drill bit somewhat - being a grinding disk. Try a maisonary bit

For a holding tool an old clutch plate with a welded on arm would suffice, once you remove the springs the inner will turn when you try to tighten the puller.

Remember both the clutch and the engine sprocket need to come off at the same time as the duplex chain won't allow one off without the other.

The last stuck rotor I had was on Bob's Greaves and we had to cut it off with a grinder, 2 of my pullers were destroyed trying to get it off. It was wierd as the replacement slid onto the shaft really easily.

All the best
Dave

[Sphere]

Hrm, maybe the 3 bolts are outside of the metal ring of a grinder disc, I will check that. Thanks for your input.

[Sphere]

I have the ultimate metricinch tool at my disposal now (big Bahco). So the motor axle nut will come off when it stops raining. Hopefully the sprocket will come off with the generic puller I got. Otherwise making a puller with awkward thread (to me) is going to be a pain I can't even think of a store who could sell me the proper bolts, let alone measuring what goes in them.

[Diesel Dave]

Remember it's only 15 quid for the proper factory puller......

http://www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/im ... es0364.jpg

Plus VAT & Post

Or ever from India Via eBay

http://tinyurl.com/csae45

Also will last a lifetime too

Dave

[Sphere]

Hi Dave,

9 quid and 17 quid postage. 10 + 17 for the sprocket one. I will only use the sprocket one once, since I'm chucking out the petrol engine and it is probably unlikely that I will be changing the clutch drum a lot, although I'm unsure what the longevity of the primary chain + sprocket + clutch drum is.

So roughly 60 euro for stuff I will rarely use. Seems like a waste of time, money, and takes the fun out of tinkering a nice home-cooked solution during a rainy Easter weekend. Thanks for the suggestion though

[Sphere]

Created by Hans Taverne, taken from http://www.drive.to/recn

[Sphere]

What is the bolt size for the 2 sprocket holes, 1/4"?

[Sphere]

Well, I guess removing the clutch housing will have to wait. The motor axle nut will NOT come off. Motor is in gear, applying force to the rear break then try to remove the nut, but when I apply a lot of force with my Bahco, the rear wheel starts moving.

Maybe I can insert something between the spokes or something. Oh well.

[Diesel Dave]

I use a 12v wheel nut gun, it even undoes the flywheel nut on the Lombardini's and these are over 200ft/lb's.

[Sphere]

Yeah I understand the error of my ways. I have an impact driver, but I need the 1" thingie of which I don't know the name in English. Drive sockets?!

[Sphere]

Having this primary case thing gloat at me got kinda old. So I changed my approach. First I mated a 3 pound hammer and my Bahco together to remove the motor axle nut. Gently but firmly tapping the Bahco, it gave in.

Next I had to remove, what I later found out was a small piece of metal keeping a bush in place. The same hammer and a screwdriver took care of that. After removing the bush, I quickly learned that removing the sprocket was possible without a puller.

Then I thought of the clutch centre pin and it struck me I could just use something similar to remove the clutch drum. So I took an M6x60 bolt, a nut and a washer and inserted that into the axle centre. Then I remounted the clutchspringcoverplate(?) and equally tightened the bolts. Low and behold, the drum started moving

Remove and repeat three times, and it came off!

I may still have to make a tool to remount the clutch, but for now I can focus on removing the inner primary.

[Diesel Dave]

You won't need a tool to remount the clutch.

Just use a suitable sized socket and a hammer.

Dave

[Sphere]

Hum, would it be wise to drain the petrol engine of oil before removing the primary case? Inside the case it seems a rubber seal is kept in place, and I would hate having to deal with bickering about oil stains from you-know-who, if it started to gulp oil

Or can you just remove the case, engine and gearbox whilst keeping the fluids inside?

[Diesel Dave]

If you intend to keep the engine on one piece then don't drain the oil.

It's a pain to do on the petrol motors because you have to drain the crankcase, oil tank and timing chest & filter.

Dave

[Stuart]

Seeing as the homemade clutch tool is featured in this thread I thought I'd post my effort up. I had to modify the end to handle the BNR clutch. It works great and couldn't do without it

[Sphere]

That looks great

[oldbmw]

Does anyone know what size the nut is that holds the gearbox sprocket on a five speed gearbox ?

[Sphere]

I did my measuring with an inexpensive thingie (Nl: schuifmaat). Perhaps it can be of use to you as well. I'm wondering if the nut might be metric since you have a new model

[oldbmw]

yes, I have the later model. Is why I specifically mentioned it was a five speed. I would like to have all the tools to hand before starting the job... I hoped someone had been in there and knew the size of the nut. Really is very little room in there when assembled.