sbrumby wrote:If I were testing an engine I would have the fuel coming from the bottom of the can higher than the engine that way anything shows itself as a leak of fuel and air is ruled out. Secondly if the engine does not strike up straight away give it a squirt of easystart. Starter motors are only designed for really short periods of use.
The kubota manual specifically states that I definitely shouldn't use any kind of starting fluid. But I am now just treeing to bleed the air from the fuel lines.
Edit; I will try to hold the fuel can higher this time.
"...the fearless Dutchman..." -Stuart
"...the mad Dutchman..." -Diesel Dave
Honda VT600 C Shadow
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Mercedes-Benz W123 300D Sedan
Put the injector pipes back on ( I think you are just sucking air back in) then just open the large nut on the fuel pipe on each injector one at a time.
Just loosen it half a turn until you are getting neat fuel while the engine is turning over on the starter.
It should try to fire if air is the problem.
I would then try a small amount fuel down the intake or easy start or even WD40.
It should fire and if your pump is faulty it might encourage it to work and clear any air in the system.
Easy start is not a good idea in the long term and too much can lock up the engine but this is a one off to prove a point so try it.
Agreed, put the pipes back on, I would check that the pump elements aren't stuck, sometimes happen when they have been sitting a while, but would be surprised if its all 3 at once.
Does the governor arm have resistance to it when pulled, it may be that the internal spring has broken or been removed.
The fuel coming out of the return line means that the mechanical lift pump is working.
Cant remove the entire pump. Allready broke off one bolt. I did however pull the guts out of each one till i got to the pungers and when i turned the engine over they did come up and down.
"...the fearless Dutchman..." -Stuart
"...the mad Dutchman..." -Diesel Dave
Honda VT600 C Shadow
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Mercedes-Benz W123 300D Sedan
Right, I havn't got the faintest as whats causing this. I've pulled the injector pump guts out and cleaned them. I even checked if the plungers would come up and down while everything was disassembled and they did.
So I put everything back together and tried to bleed the air out of the lines again... Here's the result:
Right, I havn't got the faintest as whats causing this. I've pulled the injector pump guts out and cleaned them. I even checked if the plungers would come up and down while everything was disassembled and they did.
So I put everything back together and tried to bleed the air out of the lines again... Here's the result:
The idea was that sometimes if you can get it to run it forces the fuel through as the engine is turning faster although you'll still have to bleed it.
Right, I havn't got the faintest as whats causing this. I've pulled the injector pump guts out and cleaned them. I even checked if the plungers would come up and down while everything was disassembled and they did.
So I put everything back together and tried to bleed the air out of the lines again... Here's the result:
gilburton wrote:I can't compare it to anything I've had but there does seem to be a lot of fuel coming out of the return line.
Possibly the stop needs looking at??
That's probably because I was pulling the stop the wrong way. But I still cant seem to bleed the fuel lines...
"...the fearless Dutchman..." -Stuart
"...the mad Dutchman..." -Diesel Dave
Honda VT600 C Shadow
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Mercedes-Benz W123 300D Sedan
Tetronator wrote:That's probably because I was pulling the stop the wrong way. But I still cant seem to bleed the fuel lines...
It would take a long time on my yanmar to fill the high pressure tube and that was a short pipe. Maybe you can tilt your engine so that all air from the high pressure pipes goes to the exit where you open it.
You could remove the injectors for the time being. And disconnect them from the injector lines and crank untill each pipe clearly is full. Then connect the injectors (carefull) and deair them. See if they spray and remount them. Also removing the injectors makes it easier to crank the engine for longer. I know..
No sticking body parts in the spray area. verboden!
Tetronator wrote:That's probably because I was pulling the stop the wrong way. But I still cant seem to bleed the fuel lines...
It would take a long time on my yanmar to fill the high pressure tube and that was a short pipe. Maybe you can tilt your engine so that all air from the high pressure pipes goes to the exit where you open it.
You could remove the injectors for the time being. And disconnect them from the injector lines and crank untill each pipe clearly is full. Then connect the injectors (carefull) and deair them. See if they spray and remount them. Also removing the injectors makes it easier to crank the engine for longer. I know..
No sticking body parts in the spray area. verboden!
If I open up the injection pump while my fuel can is still up in the air like in the video a stream of diesel will come out of the injection pump. Just by gravity feed pressure, so I know its full and de-aired.
But when I turn it over, nothing comes out.
"...the fearless Dutchman..." -Stuart
"...the mad Dutchman..." -Diesel Dave
Honda VT600 C Shadow
H̶o̶n̶d̶a̶ ̶C̶B̶R̶6̶0̶0̶F̶2̶
Mercedes-Benz W123 300D Sedan
Tetronator wrote:
If I open up the injection pump while my fuel can is still up in the air like in the video a stream of diesel will come out of the injection pump. Just by gravity feed pressure, so I know its full and de-aired.
But when I turn it over, nothing comes out.
And the pipes all the way to the injectors aswell? If there is any pocket of air in the pipes behind the injection pump they will not work. You need to see a clear sharp pulse in the liquid everytime the pump has a stroke. No matter if it's directly on the pump side or at the exit of the injector piping.
Tetronator wrote:
If I open up the injection pump while my fuel can is still up in the air like in the video a stream of diesel will come out of the injection pump. Just by gravity feed pressure, so I know its full and de-aired.
But when I turn it over, nothing comes out.
And the pipes all the way to the injectors aswell? If there is any pocket of air in the pipes behind the injection pump they will not work. You need to see a clear sharp pulse in the liquid everytime the pump has a stroke. No matter if it's directly on the pump side or at the exit of the injector piping.
I think so, you can see me crack open the bleed nut leading into the injector pump coming from the fuel pump in the video.
"...the fearless Dutchman..." -Stuart
"...the mad Dutchman..." -Diesel Dave
Honda VT600 C Shadow
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Mercedes-Benz W123 300D Sedan
Tetronator wrote:I think so, you can see me crack open the bleed nut leading into the injector pump coming from the fuel pump in the video.
Idea:
Check for the pulses behind the injection pump as well see f it actually pumps (on the pump exit per cilinder).Then add the lines to the pump and fill those up and then connect them to the injectors and check the flow through the bleed line untill there is only diesel coming out. then bolt it all the way down to start?
Well then, I smell of eau de diesel but I've gotten the waterpump side injector to work VERY briefly.
What I'm thinking is happening is that the plungers are getting stuck once they reach the top of their stroke in the plunger barrel.
I have been pushing them back with an allen key and that seemed to have freed up one of them for a while but it got stuck again.
So anyone have a more permanent solution for this?
Also if I remove the assembly will I ruin the timing on my engine? I'm not really sure but I think it should be fine as they are inline and their being driven by a camshaft which is connected to a gear drive...
And with assembly I mean one of the 3 injection pumps, not the entire injector pump block.
Last edited by Tetronator on Sun Jul 19, 2015 7:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.
"...the fearless Dutchman..." -Stuart
"...the mad Dutchman..." -Diesel Dave
Honda VT600 C Shadow
H̶o̶n̶d̶a̶ ̶C̶B̶R̶6̶0̶0̶F̶2̶
Mercedes-Benz W123 300D Sedan
I would keep doing that. I suspected the elements where stuck. Any idea on the history if the engine?
Righto will try again. Its been used as a trailer power unit for refrigeration. After it had been replaced with 750 Hours on it for a newer model it sat for 4 years.
alexanderfoti wrote:You won't mess with the timing if you remove the pump. Just make sure you replace any shims that sit between the pump and the engine.
Yeah I guessed as much but another guy whose helping me seems to think differently.
"...the fearless Dutchman..." -Stuart
"...the mad Dutchman..." -Diesel Dave
Honda VT600 C Shadow
H̶o̶n̶d̶a̶ ̶C̶B̶R̶6̶0̶0̶F̶2̶
Mercedes-Benz W123 300D Sedan
Been going at it for quite a while now. The plungers are still noticably stuck at the top of thier stroke. Any miracle lube that will help the process?