Modifying governor on Hatz 1B30

[jeremy]

Greetings after a spell of small business distraction! I thought I'd write to update this small pond on my own small drama, and what progress I've made. Yes, I'm still on the path however choppy and hard to follow...I have mostly been collecting parts over the last 9 months, now having most of what I need to build. My ride is based on an old Husky 250cc, which is light, simple and in all respects, elemental. I'm hoping the bike will weigh in at under 250# all-up. This will be important, as the power is the Hatz 1B30 with Comet mod. 500 CVT, both of which sit in boxes, bright shiny new and teasing me(':twisted:'). The bike will resemble a 1960's Brit clubman when complete--I've scavenged the old fairing-seat off my '66 G-15 and restyled an old aftermarket GRP commando tank to have straighter sides and square bottom edge. I'm fitting a 1 3/8" exhaust (though not sure how I'll transition from exh. port yet) with a nice old BSA or other 'torpedo' muffler I got on ebay. Found some perfect rear buddy-peg triangle frame-bits on an old jap wreck which also have rubber bush for mounting silencer. Bought a 70-tooth aluminum rear sprocket from a nearby producer (Sprocket Specialists-800-782-8200), and pillow blocks to support the coming 1" jackshaft (no room in this frame for a pre-unit tranny, nor do I have one. I thought about surgically disconnecting the Husky trans from crankcase, but chose the easier course, partly because the rotation would have to be flipped, requiring an extra shaft/gear between clutch and engine). All this seems in order so far. Here's my greatest struggle: I purchased a constant-rpm Hatz eng. because it was brand new, half-price, and came with electric start and 10-amp alternator. Now I have to face up to disassembling the outer case side to access the governor for the required modification to make a variable speed model--different flyweights and these little fractional-mm thick flat sheet-springs on the gov. shaft. My hope is that someone in this virtuial community has done this operation before me and I can benefit by their experience. I'm going to have to get the shop manual and spare gov. parts from the US dist. which is doable. And I found a gent who ultimately didn't ridicule me and faxed me the factory shop pages indicating these differences.

O yeah, forgot to mention that on Jan 2, I successfully got a "sequence-number" for our CA. "Senate Bill 100" special construction vehicle registration program, the first step in the process of registering a non-conforming motor vehicle. They only issue 500 per year and you have to stake out the front door of the DMV office on the first business day of the year, and then repeatedly call the State HQ until you get through. This was exciting, and felt like a big step fwd.

That's about so far--any feedback? Thanks, it's been sustaining reading about the growing number of efforts out there.

[endlos]

im looking to do something very similar.....love to have a chat with you, hit me with your number...

[jeremy]

I have bought the shop manual from Hatz USA and the job is actually doable--doesn't seem too intimidating after all. Turns out that one must only pull the rocker cover, rocker arms and pushrods to get inside the engine side-cover, what they call the timing case cover. When I looked at the engine it seemed that it was all built up under the cylinder barrel and head--but that's not the case (no pun intended). So no more sleep lost there.