i was wondering if a cvt from yamaha snowmobile will work with my 10hp yanmar clone with tapered shaft.
a whole sled is up for sale in the area might be able to use some other parts for the conversion but am pretty new to this concept.
kind of overwelmed to where to start, thought i could get a bulk of the pieces for the conversion from this sled.
i could save on some cash if it works but would i pay in hassle of making it fit and work?
i tried to add some diagrams of the clutch.
its from a 89 yamaha phazer 400= cc two stroke
appreciate any input.
thanks,nate
Attachments
83 peugeot 505 30k miles on wvo
kubota g6200 running 50/50 biodieel and diesel
10 hp yanclone pushin'
Search out a shop that reworks Sled CVT's. Would expect it to take a total rebuild and tune to get a sled CVT to work on a diesel bike. Sled CVT RPM range is hugely different than a diesel engine on a bike. Thus the whole thing will need new springs, weights/rollers? to get the sled CVT tuned. End cost may be more than new cvt already set up from factory for your needs (700 to a 1000 buks?)
Hey welcome Nate. And this is the place to ask the questions. One challenge you'll have is that the tapered shaft typically has no keyway. Additionally, some are 26 MM which is quite uncommon and the taper is not consistent with the taper found on those few drive pulleys with a taper. Either way, you can't mount a CVT drive pulley directly to it. Therefore, your options are to pull the crank (which is not difficult at all) and have the crank turned down to 25MM/1" along with having a keyway cut in. Or................ cobble a keyless bush for a conventional pulley to a jackshaft on which the CVT drive pulley is mounted. The latter approach consumes both power and space. I say cobble because keyless bushes are not found in 26MM and thus you need to mount an additional bush between the crank and a larger sized keyless bush. Don't ask me why I know these things.
And as George noted, the sled parts are probably of little value for all of our combined reasons. Hang in there and we'll try to help out.
thanks for the reply. i will hold on the idea of getting the snowmobile.
getting bit too anxious. ...
some pics of what i got,
don't know if i got enough to cut to 1 inch.
think there might be a clutch to fit a 3/4"?
thanks
Attachments
83 peugeot 505 30k miles on wvo
kubota g6200 running 50/50 biodieel and diesel
10 hp yanclone pushin'
Oops!! I'm afraid I assumed you had a tapered crank like several of mine. The ones I have are tapered on the end but have about 1 1/2" of straight shaft before the taper, which is the 26MM portion I referenced. Several chaps have machined a tapered hub to accommodate a taper such as yours. Also, check the various suppliers to see whether they offer in a drive pulley for a 3/4" shaft, should you turn yours down. A 3/4" crank might be pushing it with respect to torque loads. Perhaps someone else can speak to that.
I like the idea of making a taper to fit your crank. With a taper attachment lathe setup (or the cross slide on a larger lathe) it is not hard to bore either a tapered bushing to adapt to a straight bore CVT or to make a flange with a tapered ID to fit a larger CVT drive pulley. I would machine the crank for a half-moon key just to make sure that everything stays together, not a hard thing to do and with a little creativity can be done without pulling the crank. If you still have whatever was connected to your engine you could turn whatever it was down into an adapter bushing pretty easily.
Originally I thought that I could save money by getting an old sled and using the CVT, I bought an old Scorpion 440cc for $100, figuring the CVT would be overkill for a one-lunger Diesel and last forever. It had a tapered shaft with a key on the snow engine crank. The first problem was that the sled only had a ramp in one direction on the driven pulley so that there would be no engine braking, and the "drive" ramp went the wrong way for my engine rotation! The second problem was that the distance between the crankshaft and driven shaft was too big to fit in a reasonably sized bike frame (large pulleys and long belt). The third was that when I disassembled the drive pulley I found that the innards were really beat up, the drive ramps were all grooved and rough and it looked like someone filled it with rocks and beat on it with a ball-pein hammer. I decided that it wasn't worth all the work fixing it and still ending up with something that was a cobbed up job. Luckily I sold the sled for $25 more than I paid for it. I ended up buying a Comet on fleaBay for $160 new, and an additional $22 for 2 new Kevlar belts. Look around, be patient, and I am sure you'll find one for a good price.
thanks for the insight.
i missed that comet on e-bay. i tried to find any info on that drive. is there anyway to check if it would work on my 10 hp?
the dimensions seem bigger than i was expecting, width and 9+ inches OD. price is reasonable, especially for a person who never dealt with cvt's. it would help alot to have the part to decide how to fit the unit.
thanks all i feel i made some good progress.
cheers.
83 peugeot 505 30k miles on wvo
kubota g6200 running 50/50 biodieel and diesel
10 hp yanclone pushin'
All I can find (you've probably seen the same thing) is that that eBay driven unit is for a Manco go-cart, I looked at the old Comet website (they're now temporarily defunct) and couldn't find that number so it seems to be a proprietary unit. For the price, it may be worth getting to experiment with. Belt size seems about the same as some of the other 15HP units??? You could always shim the spring to get it to "downshift" at a greater torque, ot reduce the spring as needed. May be worth a try. I have a Comet 40 I am going to use, not the best but it too was cheap and seems to be beefy enough for my 7HP diesel, though I've still yet to get the thing all together enough to move under it's own power.
yeah, i called the supplier on e-bay. they didn't know any specs on it. and can't seem to find any matching numbers. maybe i could go from manco to find which machines use them. as you can see i;m far from setting things up to give any results.
looks nice though, like you said the price might be worth the risk humm ...?
but my main concern is that i still got to work the clutch whichever one i get to fit the tapered shaft. which will add to the cost.
thanks for the response, i'll keep things posted.
nate
83 peugeot 505 30k miles on wvo
kubota g6200 running 50/50 biodieel and diesel
10 hp yanclone pushin'
greasecat wrote:...but my main concern is that i still got to work the clutch whichever one i get to fit the tapered shaft. ...nate
Clutch? the made for Manco unit has a clutch? That is odd... Most CVT's have no hand clutch.. or otherwise for that matter. Just a pully that seperates enough to allow belt slip below a certain point in the RPM range.
sorry, my mistake.
i think my typing doesen't keep up with my thoughts.
don't know why i put clutch. i meant driven. still gathering information. i've seen some pics of yanmars L100, they had some tapered shafts but looked like they were couple inches longer.
83 peugeot 505 30k miles on wvo
kubota g6200 running 50/50 biodieel and diesel
10 hp yanclone pushin'
