Land Speed Racing
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Land Speed Racing
Below is a link to my blog. It includes further details about this build, as well as other projects I've worked on:
http://altfuelspeed.blogspot.com/
I've been pretty bad about updating my projects lately, so here's the last several months of work. I found out about a new land speed racing association that began running in Maine, USA in 2009.
http://lta-lsr.com/default.aspx
Nobody had set any records in their alternate fuel classes, so I prepped my single-speed Yanmar clone for the job. I figured it would be easy, just show up, race, and get a record, but it took me about 6 months to make it legal for the competition.
The bike after I upgraded the electricals with a dead man's switch (the lanyard on the left handlebar) and a proper exhaust system to "direct exhaust away from the racing surface". I used unbaffled straight pipes, and definetely noticed a major power increase.
The layout of the drivetrain after major modifications. I replaced the side panels andc converted them to number boards, made struts to replace the rear shocks and mounted a homemade aluminum chain guard (race requirement). I also added a smaller sprocket to up the top speed to 55ish, made a clutch cover, and added a smaller battery tta could be fastened with a metal strap.
http://altfuelspeed.blogspot.com/
I've been pretty bad about updating my projects lately, so here's the last several months of work. I found out about a new land speed racing association that began running in Maine, USA in 2009.
http://lta-lsr.com/default.aspx
Nobody had set any records in their alternate fuel classes, so I prepped my single-speed Yanmar clone for the job. I figured it would be easy, just show up, race, and get a record, but it took me about 6 months to make it legal for the competition.
The bike after I upgraded the electricals with a dead man's switch (the lanyard on the left handlebar) and a proper exhaust system to "direct exhaust away from the racing surface". I used unbaffled straight pipes, and definetely noticed a major power increase.
The layout of the drivetrain after major modifications. I replaced the side panels andc converted them to number boards, made struts to replace the rear shocks and mounted a homemade aluminum chain guard (race requirement). I also added a smaller sprocket to up the top speed to 55ish, made a clutch cover, and added a smaller battery tta could be fastened with a metal strap.
Last edited by HondaJohn on Thu Dec 22, 2016 3:10 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Land Speed Racing
I installed street tires to cut back the rolling resistance. It is fairly difficult to find modern tires with unbroken ribs in the center of the contact surface, but I finally found a type of Metzler that worked. I used the same tire front and back, but almost ran into disaster when the tire started rubbing against the front fender! Apparently, 4.00x18 tires don't have consistent sizes; the previous knobbys were supposedly the same size and they had plenty of clearance. I had to modify some mounting hardware to make it work.
This is more or less the final configuration before I left for Maine
The mighty Ranger and the glorified mini bike at Loring.
The return lane. This abandoned runway is supposedly the 14th longest in the world. The actual race course, 20 yards east, is 13th longest.
This is more or less the final configuration before I left for Maine
The mighty Ranger and the glorified mini bike at Loring.
The return lane. This abandoned runway is supposedly the 14th longest in the world. The actual race course, 20 yards east, is 13th longest.
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Re: Land Speed Racing
Not diesel, but beautiful.
PASSED!...with conditions
The didn't like my lock wire job, so I had to redo most of it (all of it, it sucked pretty bad)
Home base for the weekend. Some people brought massive motorhomes and trailers, we had an awning and a pickup bed.
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Re: Land Speed Racing
After a disappointing first pass (42 mph) we decided to take the axe to everything not required by the rules. goodbye fender, brakes, taillight, and airbox. All this paid off in the next run, when the bike hit 50.09 mph
Lean and mean. My top speed, and the new record, is 56.5 mph in my final pass. I think the engine was running somewhere around 3700 rpm, so I should be able to increase that and improve a little next year
Also not a diesel, but this guy did 311 mph, so he gets a mention.
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Re: Land Speed Racing
That's incredible!!! You've made us all proud and I must confess to a certain envy. Thanks for the story and pics.
Ron
- Dougy
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Re: Land Speed Racing
Yeah I'm having that mate, well done got any video of your run
IGNORE THE RATTLE AND ENJOY THE RIDE
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Re: Land Speed Racing
No videos yet, the only vantage point was a bit too far away for that, but my friend got some good side shots.
this was the first run.
And this was after I ripped everything off
this was the first run.
And this was after I ripped everything off
- Dougy
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Re: Land Speed Racing
Next year try it Rolly Free style, in your undies and lying down
IGNORE THE RATTLE AND ENJOY THE RIDE
- vincentyeager
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Re: Land Speed Racing
nice going! i must admit i am a little jealous (if only we had those races here.. ).
but hey, doesn't the class -you're participating in- allows fairings?
it would definately push your max. speed..
but hey, doesn't the class -you're participating in- allows fairings?
it would definately push your max. speed..
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Re: Land Speed Racing
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nrd_TluqSSc
A bit slow off the line, but this was my final top speed run
A bit slow off the line, but this was my final top speed run
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Re: Land Speed Racing
The next class up is partial streamlining, and that allows as much fiberglass as I want, as long as you can see my entire body from the side. I plan on running for the partially streamlined 500cc class next year with this:
junkyard Suzuki GS550E. I think there is another post for it somewhere on this thread, but the project kinda got put on the back burner for a while. Now that the first one is "done", I think I'll start with this. I already have a little EMGO fairing that I might use.
i originally wanted to put on a 5 speed and stretch the frame, but they have pretty strict standards at the track and i want to keep as much of the original loop as possible. I think i can put on a CVT like Dougy's Harley and only have to modify the right downtube.
This is what it looks like in my head, we'll see if I can come close
I haven't decided whether to leave the kawi as is or try to improve it with a CVT for next year, so i think I'll sit on it for a while and figure that out later.
junkyard Suzuki GS550E. I think there is another post for it somewhere on this thread, but the project kinda got put on the back burner for a while. Now that the first one is "done", I think I'll start with this. I already have a little EMGO fairing that I might use.
i originally wanted to put on a 5 speed and stretch the frame, but they have pretty strict standards at the track and i want to keep as much of the original loop as possible. I think i can put on a CVT like Dougy's Harley and only have to modify the right downtube.
This is what it looks like in my head, we'll see if I can come close
I haven't decided whether to leave the kawi as is or try to improve it with a CVT for next year, so i think I'll sit on it for a while and figure that out later.
- Crazymanneil
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Re: Land Speed Racing
Saw this has been posted on hackaday - good for you!
http://hackaday.com/2011/10/03/sustaina ... eed-record
Neil
http://hackaday.com/2011/10/03/sustaina ... eed-record
Neil
Smart engined 800cc turbo diesel triumph tiger. 100mpg (imp)
Belfast to Kathmandu overland, 2010/2011 - http://www.suckindiesel.com
Bangkok to Sydney ???
Belfast to Kathmandu overland, 2010/2011 - http://www.suckindiesel.com
Bangkok to Sydney ???
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Re: Land Speed Racing
Just a quick status update on the project: I finished the two-speed, and it worked correctly for about 3 days.
Then I discovered that locking sprag bearings fail when they come into contact with grease containing moly, PTFE, or Graphite. Of course it wasn't labeled as containing any of these, but whatever. Long story short, wrecked the bearing, and had to come up with a homemade solution. I made a ratcheting gear on my 100 year old mill:
This worked well, and lasted long enough for me to record a video of the bike running with the new engine mods and exhaust system:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v6N51KyR ... ature=plcp
Unfortunately, the shoulderscrew I used to locate the ratchet pawl failed and sheared off about an hour later. In addition, the return spring collapsed, and in an apparently unrelated event, the fuel cutoff solenoid on the pump failed. Only 3.5 months to go!
Then I discovered that locking sprag bearings fail when they come into contact with grease containing moly, PTFE, or Graphite. Of course it wasn't labeled as containing any of these, but whatever. Long story short, wrecked the bearing, and had to come up with a homemade solution. I made a ratcheting gear on my 100 year old mill:
This worked well, and lasted long enough for me to record a video of the bike running with the new engine mods and exhaust system:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v6N51KyR ... ature=plcp
Unfortunately, the shoulderscrew I used to locate the ratchet pawl failed and sheared off about an hour later. In addition, the return spring collapsed, and in an apparently unrelated event, the fuel cutoff solenoid on the pump failed. Only 3.5 months to go!
- coachgeo
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Re: Land Speed Racing
Is there a specific reason to your 2speed homebrew box over say a Ulitma or a CVT?
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Re: Land Speed Racing
All the other transmission types require stretching the frame, and I wanted to maintain the original dimensions of the bike so I could reuse all the stock parts. Also, you experience a certain amount of power loss through friction when you use V-belts.
- coachgeo
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Re: Land Speed Racing
wouldn't this be sort of a wash out have basically infinate ratios between two pointsHondaJohn wrote:... Also, you experience a certain amount of power loss through friction when you use V-belts.
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Re: Land Speed Racing
Thats true, and that is very useful when you're mostly using the bike on the road with constanty changing conditions. I am trying to optimize it for flat ground, straight line, high speed situations, and the engineer in me likes predictable repeatability I don't have much experience with CVT's, so I wanted to focus on pre-determined gears so i could dial it in more easily.coachgeo wrote:wouldn't this be sort of a wash out have basically infinate ratios between two points
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Re: Land Speed Racing
Note to self, don't use sintered steel sprockets in the future. Apparently they can't handle shock loads. The pawl punched a chunk of the ratchet sprocket right out during a test ride today. I'll remachine it from carbon steel this weekend.
On the plus side, the stronger pawl hinge bolt that I made was the only part of the assembly to survive
On the plus side, the stronger pawl hinge bolt that I made was the only part of the assembly to survive
- boutje
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Re: Land Speed Racing
A suggestion about making sprockets.
I make sprockets , for motorcycle use , out of 42CrMo4.
See for specs:
http://www.matbase.com/material/ferrous ... properties
I make sprockets , for motorcycle use , out of 42CrMo4.
See for specs:
http://www.matbase.com/material/ferrous ... properties
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Re: Land Speed Racing
A quick update of my results for Land Speed Racing 2012:
Four New Records Set:
- A-AF/350-4 : 1 mile : 57.3
- A-AF/350-4 : 1.5 mile : 58.2
- APS-AF/350-4 : 1 mile : 59.0
- APS-AF/350-4 : 1.5 mile : 59.2
Engine Modifications:
- Stronger Valve Springs
- Ram Air Intake
- High Level Megaphone Exhaust
- Modified Governor
- Max RPM - 4500
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W3sX9x9A ... ature=plcp
Four New Records Set:
- A-AF/350-4 : 1 mile : 57.3
- A-AF/350-4 : 1.5 mile : 58.2
- APS-AF/350-4 : 1 mile : 59.0
- APS-AF/350-4 : 1.5 mile : 59.2
Engine Modifications:
- Stronger Valve Springs
- Ram Air Intake
- High Level Megaphone Exhaust
- Modified Governor
- Max RPM - 4500
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W3sX9x9A ... ature=plcp
Last edited by HondaJohn on Sat Sep 09, 2017 3:25 am, edited 5 times in total.
Re: Land Speed Racing
Congratulations! Nicely done. Nice movie as well. However it seemed to me that however you tuned the engine up to 4500 RPM it didn't go near there. I have the feeling that if you would use a larger rear sprocket, it might just have some extra power to overcome wind resistance an maybe gain some extra speed. But, nevertheless, you did it again .
As long as it smokes, it runs!
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Re: Land Speed Racing
You got that exactly right. This video was one of the first runs before I got everything sorted. The gearing was all wrong, and I was stuck at 4000 rpm, plus I was dealing with some nasty head/crosswinds. On day three I got everything figured out and meshing correctly, and that's when I made all the record passes. I'll try to post a few more updates that go into more detail over the next week.
Re: Land Speed Racing
It is a fun adventure just following your posts, keep up the good work!
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Re: Land Speed Racing
I finally have a chance to sit down and cover the last few months of updates. After blowing the second sprag sprocket design, I made a new one using a sprocket made of hardened tool steel, with a pressed-on ring to reinforce it.
This design still had a major flaw. The ratchet pawl had a habit of flattening out and mushrooming at the tip, which would prevent it from seating and cause it to break and lock the ratchet. I solved that by filing large chamfers on the sides of the contact edge, and oil hardening the parts, but this still needed to be rebuilt every 20-30 miles or so. This was good enough for racing, but I wanted to eventually use the bike on the road.
The final design uses four ball bearings that sit in ramps on the inner collar that is locked to the shaft. The sprocket has a series of shallow notches machined into its inner surface, and when it spins in the direction of the ramps, the balls roll into the notches and lock the parts together. So far, this design has lasted for over 100 miles without fault.
The last major change I made was to replace the ANSI Type 40 roller chain with SAE Type 420 O-ring chain. This is compatible with ANSI 41 sprockets, so I remachined the sprockets to the correct width. The regular chain was throwing off the grease too quickly and then seizing links, and O-ring chain will last longer.
I've also completed a full set of blueprints, the associated documentation, and a full costed out parts-list for this transmission design. If anyone is interested in making a copy of this design, or having parts manufactured by me for their project, you can PM me at John.W.Petsche@gmail.com. Cheers!
This design still had a major flaw. The ratchet pawl had a habit of flattening out and mushrooming at the tip, which would prevent it from seating and cause it to break and lock the ratchet. I solved that by filing large chamfers on the sides of the contact edge, and oil hardening the parts, but this still needed to be rebuilt every 20-30 miles or so. This was good enough for racing, but I wanted to eventually use the bike on the road.
The final design uses four ball bearings that sit in ramps on the inner collar that is locked to the shaft. The sprocket has a series of shallow notches machined into its inner surface, and when it spins in the direction of the ramps, the balls roll into the notches and lock the parts together. So far, this design has lasted for over 100 miles without fault.
The last major change I made was to replace the ANSI Type 40 roller chain with SAE Type 420 O-ring chain. This is compatible with ANSI 41 sprockets, so I remachined the sprockets to the correct width. The regular chain was throwing off the grease too quickly and then seizing links, and O-ring chain will last longer.
I've also completed a full set of blueprints, the associated documentation, and a full costed out parts-list for this transmission design. If anyone is interested in making a copy of this design, or having parts manufactured by me for their project, you can PM me at John.W.Petsche@gmail.com. Cheers!
Last edited by HondaJohn on Fri Jan 04, 2013 6:08 am, edited 1 time in total.
- old clunker
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Re: Land Speed Racing
Some nice engineering there, and thanks for sharing it with us.
Good luck with further racing attempts!
Good luck with further racing attempts!
There's nothing like the smell of burnt vegetable oil in the morning!!
1971 Royal Enfield diesel running on diesel/biofuel.
1971 Royal Enfield diesel running on diesel/biofuel.
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Re: Land Speed Racing
I once had to analyze some Yanmar clones for a project, and I discovered that the first major design flaw is the valve springs. They are extremely weak which can lead to valve float and sloppy timing at higher rpm's. To get more revs out of the engine, I replaced the valve springs with a stronger set to reduce float. They can be purchased here:
http://www.compgoparts.com/Pages/145/Fl ... rings.aspx
I used part number GP961-2. They are a mild performance upgrade for briggs and stratton flathead engines. They are nearly the same dimensions as the original springs in the L70 clones, and can be substituted with no other modification. Although slightly wider in diameter, it is not enough to cause them to shift out of place. I've put nearly 300 miles on my engine with these installed and have not noticed any problems. They allow me to run the engine reliably at 4000 rpm. I cannot guarantee the longevity of the engine at these speeds, but in the short term it gives a decent performance boost
http://www.compgoparts.com/Pages/145/Fl ... rings.aspx
I used part number GP961-2. They are a mild performance upgrade for briggs and stratton flathead engines. They are nearly the same dimensions as the original springs in the L70 clones, and can be substituted with no other modification. Although slightly wider in diameter, it is not enough to cause them to shift out of place. I've put nearly 300 miles on my engine with these installed and have not noticed any problems. They allow me to run the engine reliably at 4000 rpm. I cannot guarantee the longevity of the engine at these speeds, but in the short term it gives a decent performance boost
Re: Land Speed Racing
Any evidence of damage to the valve components from the increased spring tension? (Say, cam lobes, etc.)
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Re: Land Speed Racing
I haven't had a reason to pull apart the head yet so I don't know if there has been an increase in wear. I haven't heard any interesting new sounds coming from the engine though The new springs aren't much stronger anyway. I calculated that the original ones had a seat strength of 17.375 lbs and a cam lobe nose strength of 39.1 lbs. The new springs have a seat strength of 20-25 lbs and a nose strength of 45-50 lbs. Its a relatively small increase in stress. However, next time I get a chance to tear it apart I'll report what I find.
Re: Land Speed Racing
You are quite right, that is a minimal increase. You never know with these small diesels though, thanks for satisfying both of our curiosities.